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	<title>gaussmarkov: diy fx &#187; Hardware</title>
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	<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress</link>
	<description>guitar stompboxes and electronics</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:42:23 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Automatic Punch</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/automatic-punch/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/automatic-punch/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jun 2007 04:38:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/automatic-punch/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ Center punches are useful for starting holes to be drilled on a PCB. This one is from Snap On Tools and is automatic in the sense that you press down on the punch once it is in place and an internal, spring-loaded hammer makes the dimple. The Snap On version is more expensive than [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://gaussmarkov.net/images/snaponpunch.JPG" title="Automatic Punch" alt="Automatic Punch" align="right" height="92" width="240" /> Center punches are useful for starting holes to be drilled on a PCB. This one is from Snap On Tools and is <em>automatic</em> in the sense that you press down on the punch once it is in place and an internal, spring-loaded hammer makes the dimple. The Snap On version is more expensive than those at Harbor Freight, but you get what you pay for &#8212; even if you get it from Harbor Freight.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Desolder Pump</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/desolder-pump/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/desolder-pump/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2007 04:30:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/desolder-pump/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Some folks desolder with a braid but I have not mastered that yet.  This desolder pump (or &#8220;solder sucker&#8221;) works well for me.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/images/webtronics_1889_85478124.gif" title="Desolder Pump" alt="Desolder Pump" align="right" width="350" />Some folks desolder with a braid but I have not mastered that yet.  This <a href="http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/xytdespum.html">desolder pump</a> (or &#8220;solder sucker&#8221;) works well for me.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Breadboard</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/breadboard/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/breadboard/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Feb 2007 05:52:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/breadboard/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Breadboards are an inexpensive way to check out a pedal circuit.  And if you decide to try your own tweaks or designs, a breadboard is the only way to go. I got the one pictured from SmallBearElec.com.
Breadboards offer the circuit builder more freedom to improvise. Because no soldering is required, components can be quickly [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://gaussmarkov.net/images/smallbear%20-%20breadboard.png" class="floatright" float="right" align="right" />Breadboards are an inexpensive way to check out a pedal circuit.  And if you decide to try your own tweaks or designs, a breadboard is the only way to go.<span id="more-20"></span> I got <a href="http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=374">the one pictured from SmallBearElec.com</a>.</p>
<p>Breadboards offer the circuit builder more freedom to improvise. Because no soldering is required, components can be quickly inserted, removed, replaced, and reused. Often an entire circuit is built up free-style directly from a schematic.  Here, I give a breadboard layout of the TS808 clone as a starting place for beginners.</p>
<p style="clear: both">&nbsp;</p>
<p style="text-align: center"><img src="/images/breadboard.jpg" title="[Breadboard photo]" class="floatright" alt="[Breadboard photo]" width="500" /></p>
<p style="clear: both">Here is a picture of one of my breadboards from SmallBearElec.com.  (Yes, it is a good idea to have more than one.) You can make the photo bigger by viewing it in a new window. As shown, there are five pieces of white plastic laid side-by-side.</p>
<p>Each piece of plastic has holes in it and you can see that the leads of components are stuck into these holes, holding each component in place. Underneath the plastic cover, there are metal clips that grip the leads and that are connected to metal clips in other holes. In this way, the components can be connected together without solder.</p>
<p>The components are also connected together using wires. If you look closely, you can see short lengths of yellow, orange, red, green, brown, and white colored wire running between holes.</p>
<p style="clear: both" align="center"> <img src="/images/bb-connections.png" class="floatright" alt="[Breadboard Connections]" width="500" /></p>
<p style="clear: both">The blue in this diagram shows the pattern of the underlying connections on this board:  the four large plastic pieces in the breadboard picture above have rows of five holes that are connected together (the columns) and the middle plastic piece has connections running along the length of the piece (the rows).</p>
<p>The thinner middle piece holds the &#8220;rails&#8221; or &#8220;busses&#8221; because these connections are often used for things like ground or power supply. On many larger breadboards, such rails often run along the outside of the breadboard as well. And sometimes there are more than two rails running together.</p>
<p>To make all of the connections needed, one connects these groups together with wire that is also stuck into the holes. It is important to use <strong>solid core</strong> wire for this purpose.</p>
<p style="clear: both" align="center"> <img src="/images/breadboard-labelled.jpg" alt="[Labelled Breadboard Photo]" /></p>
<p style="clear: both">Here is the same photo of my breadboard with labels showing what is actually on it:  a tubescreamer, a silicon fuzz, and a germanium transistor checker.</p>
<p>The tubescreamer is the TS808 clone from <a href="http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/category/circuits/">the layouts page</a>.</p>
<p>The silicon fuzz is <a href="http://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/sch/antiquity.html" class="std">Joe Davisson&#8217;s Antiquity Fuzz</a>.</p>
<p>The germanium transistor checker is from <a href="http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/ffselect.htm" class="std">R.G. Keen&#8217;s GEOFEX</a>.</p>
<p style="clear: both" align="center"><img src="/images/ts808-bb.png" alt="[TS808 Breadboard Layout]" width="700" /></p>
<p style="clear: both">Using Eagle, I layed out the TS808 Clone circuit in breadboard fashion. The blue lines correspond to the connections pictured above. The pink lines represent connecting wires. This is not exactly what is pictured in the photo above, but it is close. The diodes, the transistors, and the IC are all in the indicated positions.</p>
<p>Again, if you right-click on the layout you can open the image in a window where you can make it larger and see the labels clearly.  The corresponding schematic is on <a href="../index.php?page=layouts" class="std">the layouts page</a>.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Soldering Iron</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/solder-iron/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/solder-iron/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 Aug 2006 23:29:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/?p=12</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I bought my first soldering iron at the hardware store and it was a total mistake. My second came from a local electronics store and it was alright.  Finally, I bought a temperature-controlled iron  recommended by Peter Snowberg and that&#8217;s what I wish I had bought in the first place.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="http://gaussmarkov.net/images/circuitspecialists%20-%20xytronics%20379ul.jpg" title="Temperature-Controlled Solder Iron" alt="Temperature-Controlled Solder Iron" align="right" height="176" width="250" />I bought my first soldering iron at the hardware store and it was a total mistake. My second came from a local electronics store and it was alright.  Finally, I bought <a href="http://circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7501">a temperature-controlled iron</a> <a href="http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=43013.msg311287#msg311287"> recommended by Peter Snowberg</a> and that&#8217;s what I wish I had bought in the first place.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Digital Multimeter</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/digital-multimeter/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/digital-multimeter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Aug 2006 04:25:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/digital-multimeter/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The digital multimeter (or DMM) is a must-have.  You can buy inexpensive ones from Radio Shack to get started but eventually you will want one with greater ranges and more features. For example, this BK Tool Kit 2704B measures capacitors and transistor HFE.  It can measure resistors up to 20M.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/images/BK2704B.gif" title="DMM" alt="DMM" align="right" class="floatright" height="344" width="200" />The digital multimeter (or DMM) is a must-have.  You can buy inexpensive ones from Radio Shack to get started but eventually you will want one with greater ranges and more features. For example, this BK Tool Kit 2704B measures capacitors and transistor HFE.  It can measure resistors up to 20M.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Third Hand</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/third-hand/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/third-hand/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 May 2006 04:34:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/third-hand/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have a love-hate relationship with the third hand tool.  I find it awkward and the darn thing always seems to slip and flop down at inconvenient moments.  I have found peace with it by using the third hand in combination with a DIY vice.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/images/thirdhand.png" title="Third Hand" alt="Third Hand" align="right" width="300" />I have a love-hate relationship with the third hand tool.  I find it awkward and the darn thing always seems to slip and flop down at inconvenient moments.  I have found peace with it by using the third hand in combination with a DIY vice.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Vice</title>
		<link>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/vice/</link>
		<comments>http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/vice/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 01 Apr 2006 04:35:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>gaussmarkov</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/hardware/vice/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This simple vice is based on  a suggestion by Paul Perry (Frostwave).  It is two pieces of 2 by 4 and two carriage bolts with washers and wing nuts.  The circuit board is by held two grooves cut with a hand saw.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/images/diy_vice.jpg" title="Vice" alt="Vice" align="right" width="300" />This simple vice is based on <a href="http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=38598.msg273682#msg273682"> a suggestion by Paul Perry (Frostwave)</a>.  It is two pieces of 2 by 4 and two carriage bolts with washers and wing nuts.  The circuit board is by held two grooves cut with a hand saw.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
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