Dr. Boogey

by gaussmarkov

Dr. Boogey Layout

This is electrictab’s pedal emulation of the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head. See his schematic at http://geocities.com/electrictabs/dr.boogey.png. It is a very popular build on Aron’s forum. This layout is a substantial revision of previous ones. It is the product of contributions by many members of the forum.


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208 Responses to “Dr. Boogey”

  1. ubersam said:

    I noticed in the schematic that the value of the capacitor in the presence control of the scaled down tone stack is indicated as 3nF. Is it supposed to be 30nF (or the next common value, 33nF)? I used the closest value that I have, 33nF, to what John listed in my DR thread. I might try a 27nF for more presence, although the circuit seems to have plenty already.

    Posted 19.06.2007 at 1:43 pm

  2. gaussmarkov said:

    Thanks! I have corrected this (… and it was correct on my computer … no idea what happened …)

    Posted 19.06.2007 at 1:48 pm

  3. candley said:

    So you’re happy with the J201 in all sockets?

    Posted 08.01.2008 at 11:38 am

  4. gaussmarkov said:

    I have to admit that I have not experimented with other transistors. :oops: :D

    Posted 08.01.2008 at 1:03 pm

  5. Will said:

    Hi Gauss. I built the Dr. B a couple of weeks ago and this little beast screams like hell!! I’m really pleased with the sound and very satisfied with the results. Your layout seems to be the best for Dr B.

    One out-of-topic question: how do you export the eagle layout to a pdf or Corel Draw vector format?

    Cheers!

    Posted 27.01.2008 at 3:06 pm

  6. gaussmarkov said:

    re pdf: the quick answer is that you use the CAM Processor listed under the File menu. this will work for either schematics or boards. first, select the Device for output and then a file for output. second, select the layers you want to include. third, choose any style features (like Fill Pads). fourth, specify image dimensions (if you like). finally, select Process Job.

    i output encapsulated postscript and go from there to pdf.

    i hope this is enough info to get you started! :-)

    Posted 28.01.2008 at 11:42 am

  7. Will said:

    Just did it and it works!! Thanks so much Gauss!

    Posted 28.01.2008 at 8:02 pm

  8. Seherezka said:

    Is it possible to use other transistors? J201 seems to be unavailable at my local store. Thanks

    Posted 30.01.2008 at 12:09 pm

  9. gaussmarkov said:

    no, you cannot just substitute in other n-channel jfets. the J201 is special in that it has a low pinch-off voltage and parts of this circuit take that into account.

    Posted 31.01.2008 at 4:16 pm

  10. Mark said:

    I had just built this project,and this thing really rocks! i still have some humming though. How can i fix this? one more thing. How can i add more bass and tame the highs? Thanks!!!

    Posted 04.03.2008 at 2:41 pm

  11. andre said:

    My dr boogey has great distortion (pot is with 500k), and even when excessive bass pot 1, voltages of q1 the q5 all 4.5v, which would be ideal for voltages less severe (bass) in the sound.
    Q1 =?
    Q2 =?
    Q3 =?
    Q4 =?
    Q5 =?

    Posted 10.03.2008 at 5:09 am

  12. Norbert said:

    Hi

    I was wondering……..would this project benefit by using the bi-polar 9v power supply instead of it normal 9v supply……and if so……How would it be added to the schematic?

    Posted 19.04.2008 at 4:52 pm

  13. gaussmarkov said:

    Norbert:

    the jfets are all biased according to the single supply. i think it would take a little redesign to switch to a +/-9V supply.

    Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:36 pm

  14. gaussmarkov said:

    Mark,

    are you using a really clean power supply?

    Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:37 pm

  15. gaussmarkov said:

    andre,

    for the JFETs with output from the drain (Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4) biasing the drain at least to 5V, preferably 5.5V, as a rule of thumb.

    Q5 has its drain tied to the power supply, so that should not be near 4.5V. it is serving as a voltage follower and that’s why it doesn’t need a trimmer for adjusting the bias.

    hope this helps, paul

    Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:41 pm

  16. sadrew said:

    Hi paul, thanks for your great layout.
    I built succesfully my dr.boogey, with zero noise and great distortion tones.
    What i don’t like too much is the tonestack, and i want to replace it with a more versatile tonemender from runoffgroove.com.
    How can i eliminate the tonestack from the dr.boogey schematic to have only gain and volume knob?
    Thanks and greetings from italy
    Giacomo

    Posted 17.05.2008 at 4:15 am

  17. gaussmarkov said:

    Giacomo,

    that’s good news that your dr. boogey is working well. you are most welcome.

    to remove the tonestack, eliminate Q5, R13, R14, C11, and C12. also run a jumper from the pad of Q5 that connects to Q4 and another jumper from the pad next to C10 that connects to terminal 2 of the treble pot to terminal 3 of the volume pot.

    you may find that you would like to insert a low pass filter between C10 and the volume pot. let me know, if you do.

    and also consider increasing the value of C10.

    all the best, paul

    Posted 17.05.2008 at 2:28 pm

  18. sadrew said:

    I founded a schematic on aron site of the db without tonestack (thanks martymart).
    Now i like my boogey even more!
    Next step will be trying the tonemender eq, but i want to have only one volume control. Should i eliminate the volume pot from the dr.boogey or from the tonemender?

    Posted 18.05.2008 at 1:19 pm

  19. gaussmarkov said:

    i would put replace everything from Q5 on with the tonemender. let us know what you do and how it works out! :-)

    Posted 19.05.2008 at 4:34 pm

  20. Roger Yu said:

    Paul, Hi my q1=5.42v q2=5.40v q3=5.38v q4 = 4.50v so my q5 g= 4.50v and s=5.08v and d=9.23 . My question is do I need to make the q5 gate more higher let say make it 4.75v or more ? Vg 4.50v -VS5.08 = -0.58 isn’t it? I’m using al J201 and my regulated adaptor power supply is 9.37v

    Posted 22.05.2008 at 4:05 am

  21. Matt McQueen said:

    Mark,
    I have watched some videos of this pedal on youtube. Love the way it sounds. I would love to find some pictures of this pedal’s guts and maybe even get a few pointers on building it. Thanks a bunch in advance.

    Posted 28.05.2008 at 8:13 pm

  22. gaussmarkov said:

    you will probably find some gut shots in the Pictures! post on diystompboxes.com. also there are quite a few build reports on that forum as well.

    i hope this helps!

    Posted 28.05.2008 at 9:43 pm

  23. gaussmarkov said:

    Roger Yu,

    If you like the sound at 4.5V for Q4′s source (and Q5′s gate), then don’t raise the voltage. I suppose you have experimented with higher values? What do you hear?

    Paul

    Posted 28.05.2008 at 9:56 pm

  24. Roger Yu said:

    Feedback even volume setting is minimum. I change Q5 into MPF102 and Source resistor into 1.2k and retain Q4 voltage at 4.5v now it’s tame. I can dial the volume up to 3 0′clock before it squeal. I tried MPF102 at Q1 but not aggressive compared to all j201 that’s why I experimented MPF to Q5. Now I’m very satisfy. One more question Paul, Is it true that I should not use Mil Bypass on this circuit co’z it may affects the circuit or causes more feedback or squeal? Thanks in advance.
    Roger

    Posted 29.05.2008 at 9:08 pm

  25. gaussmarkov said:

    Roger,

    That’s good news. I’m pleased that you worked it out.

    It has been so long since I looked at R.G.’s Millenium bypass that I do not know without looking. It surprises me to hear that. I will try to remember to look.

    Cheers, Paul

    Posted 29.05.2008 at 9:32 pm

  26. Roger Yu said:

    Thanks Paul, There’s one question still I like to verify… Electrictabs used 1uf polarized on Q1,Q2 and Q4 fet source but then you used Non-polar, What’s the difference? Is there a theory or just in practice choosing what to use? I may encounter the same circuit in the future so that I’m may know.

    Roger

    Posted 05.06.2008 at 11:24 pm

  27. gaussmarkov said:

    hi Roger,

    polar electrolytic caps have large capacitances for their size and have been used for 1uF values for a long time. but now box film caps come in this value, are not too expensive, and are not too big. they are generally a better choice.

    the primary reason is that electrolytic caps deteriorate more rapidly over time and have to be replaced more frequently.

    electrolytic caps are also leaky and they become more leaky over time. they behave like a box film cap with a resistor across its leads. this can be taken into account in a circuit. all the the source caps you mention already have resistors across their leads in the circuit so it is possible to compensate with the values of these resistors.

    with new capacitors, i doubt we would notice the difference in the sound of the dr. boogey, unless the inherent variation of the capacitances caused us to accidentally put in very different values.

    i hope this helps, paul

    Posted 06.06.2008 at 5:22 am

  28. Roger Yu said:

    Paul thanks,
    At first, I used non-polar electro on the three Q’s but feedback sometimes occur when idle even though I tame it a little by using MPF102 at q5. So I when look on electrictabs schmo which indicates polarized and I only got one 1uf tantalum then I used it on Q4. Suddenly the feedback has stop. I don’t know if this help more the MPF102 to permanently control the feedback. I never bother to change the NP electro on Q1 and Q2 anymore.
    Again, thank you so much.
    Roger

    Posted 06.06.2008 at 5:15 pm

  29. gaussmarkov said:

    hi Roger,

    perhaps the actual values of the capacitors are quite different? did you measure their capacitances with a DMM?

    paul

    Posted 07.06.2008 at 8:07 am

  30. tomas said:

    gaussmarkov, where is the “out” in this layout? is it in the 2nd pin of the vol. pot?

    many thanks.
    looking forward to this one!

    Posted 08.06.2008 at 1:16 pm

  31. gaussmarkov said:

    yes, that’s right. :-) 2nd lug/pin of the volume pot is the output. wire the output jack to that and you are good to go.

    all the best, gm

    Posted 08.06.2008 at 8:02 pm

  32. Roger Yu said:

    Hi Paul,
    I used 105 marked on tantalum and I also test it with analog multimeter only. It has a positive symbols on it.

    Thanks,
    Roger

    Posted 11.06.2008 at 4:16 am

  33. Pascal said:

    Hello Gaussmarkov,

    I’m more tube specialist and I know in that case how to adjust the bias, but here, what is the rule to adjust the FET bias with the trimmer ?

    Thx

    Posted 23.06.2008 at 12:40 pm

  34. gaussmarkov said:

    AFAIK there is no common rule for biasing JFETs with the trimmer. i suggest that you start by setting the trimmers to get 4.5V at the drain (for a 9V supply) and then adjust upward according to what your ear tells you.

    Posted 23.06.2008 at 9:21 pm

  35. Audioguy said:

    I dont suppose you’ll do a layout for the JCM800 or the Slow Century? They are both really close in design to the Dr. B as they were all essentially done by the same folks. And if you use the original layouts, they all suffer from the same noise issues… Your Dr.B is dead quiet and even seems easier to bias!
    Hell I would even pay you for your time!!!

    take care!

    Posted 05.07.2008 at 8:57 pm

  36. milzer said:

    hey.! where are the layout and parts list of this project??????????

    Posted 30.07.2008 at 1:27 am

  37. gaussmarkov said:

    at the top in the right-hand sidebar.

    Posted 30.07.2008 at 5:27 am

  38. tomas said:

    I finally got everything i need to make this happen, but as usually, i have a couple of doubts. Would the input hole be the one on the right of the word “in” (in your layout, of course) or the one below it, the hole next to R1? My other problem is with the Ground. Could it be the hole beneath the word GN…? If thats not it, then I couldn´t find it.

    Best for you, man. Your site rocks and so does your everlasting help.

    Posted 09.08.2008 at 6:51 am

  39. Fernando [From Chile] said:

    Hello, Gaussmarkov. I would like to thank you for posting this project and certainly i would like to ask some questions about the trimmers. I’ve just build this pedal and it works fine, but the setting of the trimmers keeps me unsatisfied, the sounds that i get are more like a FUZZ than “metal dist” that i believe it sounds like. I have read the posts up here and you said that we should measure the voltage at the drain, and it should be near to 5v. Well, with this setting, ¿What kind of sound do you get? Thanks!
    PD: Sorry about my poor english.

    Posted 13.08.2008 at 3:16 pm

  40. tomas said:

    Well, couldnt wait for your answer so I went ahead and did it. It worked right away. Adjusted those trimmers by ear. Now it really rocks!

    Thank you very very much for your everclear layouts and project files.

    Now im looking for my next ;)

    Posted 14.08.2008 at 4:58 pm

  41. tonygtguitar said:

    muy buen montaje amigos

    Posted 27.08.2008 at 9:59 am

  42. Hidamen said:

    Hi,

    I’m having some doubts about the Dr.Boogey schematics.

    Which layout from the forum is the best one, the one on the PDF file is different than the ones present on the forum !?

    Thanks

    Posted 08.09.2008 at 12:16 pm

  43. JEM said:

    Gaussmarkov Hello, I am pleased to have assembled its version of Dr. Boogey, and I am really satisfied with its sound, is an assembly to which he had some fear, for comments by the network on its difficulty, but with his version I have not had any problems, dreaming of the first and sound spectacular, I am very grateful for sharing with all their experience and good work. Thank you

    PS: Sorry for my English I’m using a translator to send my thanks. Greetings from Spain

    Posted 13.09.2008 at 4:08 pm

  44. neil said:

    hello gausarkov..ive atempted dr.boogie for the 2nd time..i cant make it work…i dont realy have any idea whats wrong.. this is the only project that failed..the problem is,there is no output whe engeged but when bypassed,cleantone comes out..i followed evry single step doubled triplled check the board but i can seem to find any prob..looking forward i can find answers

    tnx in advance

    Posted 17.09.2008 at 5:02 am

  45. Eric said:

    Is it possible to substitute the j201′s for 2n7000? Cheers

    Posted 18.09.2008 at 2:26 pm

  46. Mark said:

    Hi, is it possible to substitute the j201 with another fet ??? and if yes, wich other ??? the j201 seems to be unavailable here ! thanks

    Posted 03.10.2008 at 7:01 am

  47. Eric said:

    Also what values are r16 and r17 are they 100k or 100ohm? Thanks

    Posted 07.10.2008 at 2:02 am

  48. Clint said:

    Got my Dr. Boogey finished however it sounds more like a fuzz box instead of a Mesa. I have tried biasing all my J201s to 4.5v then i tweeked by ear. However, all i get is a fuzzy distortion. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Posted 26.10.2008 at 7:29 pm

  49. gaussmarkov said:

    honestly, i don’t have much time to think about it, but here are two thoughts. first, j201′s are highly variable so you can try moving them around and see what happens. (i hope you used sockets for the transistors.)

    also, i have found that j201s like to be biased above 4.5v. try starting them all around 5v and tweaking from there.

    i hope this helps. sorry that i cannot spend more time on this.

    Posted 27.10.2008 at 4:10 pm

  50. Clint said:

    I did use sockets, i purchased 10 extra J201s so ill keep trying different combinations until i find a good set. Ill try bias them at 5v also. Thanks for the quick reply.

    One other quick question.

    Does this pedal have an obscene amount of volume compared to other pedals? I have to keep the volume pot around 1.5-2 on a scale of 10 to match my bypassed volume. I am using a A100k for my volume pot.

    Thanks again

    Posted 27.10.2008 at 6:37 pm

  51. Clint said:

    Got the sound i was after with a bit more time spent with different JFETs. I ended up using a MPF102 in Q2 and after 20 minutes of tweaking all the gain stages i got the sound i was after. This pedal has a great “Gargle” sound that is so hard to recreate. Terrific schematics and PCB thanks again Gaussmarkov

    Posted 01.11.2008 at 11:15 am

  52. Matt said:

    I really want to build this pedal. I have been looking at a lot of different builds by a lot of people. I have 2 questions. 1, will this sound better made an etched pcb or a perfboard, or will it not make a difference? 2, where can I go to learn enough about reading schematics to make this. I have a couple of books. But they are older and they are textbooks. Kinda difficult to decipher.

    Posted 06.11.2008 at 2:45 pm

  53. clint said:

    how much does someone want to build this for me clint2166@cox.net

    Posted 16.11.2008 at 3:23 pm

  54. Kevin said:

    Does anyone have a mouser part number for the trimpots? I want to make sure I get the right footprint…

    Posted 23.12.2008 at 9:20 am

  55. rectifryer said:

    Matt,
    Use the pcb, it will help keep down noise unless you really know what your doing with p2p wiring or perfboard.

    Kevin,

    If you go to mouser and look at the data sheet for a particular part, it will list its dimensions. If you go ahead and etch the pcb, you will know what dimensions to look for.

    Posted 24.12.2008 at 11:39 pm

  56. rectifryer said:

    I have a ? of my own. I play with a 7 string guitar tuned adgcfad. The low A really puts it’s bite out at around 200 hz and 800hz. I would like the low pot to be tuned to 200hz and the mid to 800hz. What caps should I use for this? I’ve already put drastically larger values for c12 and c11 in. It seems the larger the value cap, the more bass I get.

    Thanks to anyone that helps, this pedal is awesome.

    Posted 24.12.2008 at 11:43 pm

  57. Nicko said:

    hello gaussmarkov! may i just ask, can i replace the metal box film caps with mylar caps?

    Posted 28.12.2008 at 6:15 am

  58. Nicko said:

    What I meant is, can I replace the caps with other types observing correct polarity? For example, replacing an electrolytic with a tantalum one. For a metal box film, a mylar one?

    Posted 28.12.2008 at 6:28 am

  59. rectifryer said:

    With polar caps their life is limited if the cap is in the signal path.

    Posted 02.01.2009 at 1:25 am

  60. ElGuidom said:

    Hi, newb here.

    I’m going through the parts list and there’s stuff I can’t find.
    For instance, I can’t find a 2.5k linear pot for mids (or audio for that matter). So what should I do? Use a 2k one?

    Also, I can’t find some caps with the correct values. Should I use some close value and be done with it? e.g. can I use a 33nF cap for C13, a 22pF for C5, etc?

    Posted 08.01.2009 at 1:50 am

  61. rectifryer said:

    For the pot go up in value.

    For the caps, that will be ok.

    Posted 13.01.2009 at 1:00 am

  62. ElGuidom said:

    Thank you.
    However, I only have a 2.2k pot for the mids, is that somewhat ok?

    Posted 14.01.2009 at 8:03 am

  63. lalelu said:

    Hi,
    Thanx for this great layout!!!

    Can I use a 18v power supply for an increased headroom?

    How would that affect the trimming? Start with 10v instead of 5v at the drains?

    Posted 23.01.2009 at 2:30 pm

  64. Piero said:

    Hi! This is a greta project, but in the ampli-in don’t work very well.
    I’ve seen that in front of the ampli there are a lot of middle. So i’ve think to insert a switch for split the middle cap from 220nf to…??? i must increase the value of it or not?

    Posted 24.01.2009 at 2:14 am

  65. Rob said:

    Just built one this weekend, phenomenal, makes me almost not miss my old Triaxis. One question, what can I do to knock the gain pot down? Can’t turn it past 9 o’clock before it is too much, of course, that is with hot pickups. Thanks.

    Posted 01.02.2009 at 10:59 pm

  66. MB said:

    I’m working on this bad-boy, but I’ve hit into a problem. This might be a stupid question, but the only thing that works is the LED. I just don’t get any sound through. Is there an easy way of clearing this one up, or any suggestion for the cause?

    Posted 04.02.2009 at 8:39 am

  67. MB said:

    I’m working on this bad-boy, but I’ve hit into a problem. This might be a stupid question, but the only thing that works is the LED. I just don’t get any sound through. Is there an easy way of clearing this one up, or any suggestion for the cause?

    Posted 04.02.2009 at 8:39 am

  68. Fakun said:

    Hi, i only have bf256 for the j201, i can’t find j201 here, what’s a better replace of the j201?

    Thanks a lot

    Posted 05.02.2009 at 8:19 am

  69. dooby doo said:

    hi any chance of anyone building a distortion along the lines of an mxr dd11 dimebag style pedal…for massive gain and crunch…

    it would be a brilliant project…

    Posted 22.02.2009 at 8:27 pm

  70. joe satriani said:

    hi guys joe here.. i ve just built the dr boogey and i would say that its the best boost preamp pedal i have come across…well done guys keep up the excellent work…

    cheers joe.

    Posted 22.02.2009 at 8:34 pm

  71. Fakun said:

    Hi, a question. Can i use other transistors in darlington for get the rigth gain? I can’t find j201 here. Anny sugestion?

    Posted 24.02.2009 at 6:44 am

  72. Phre4k said:

    Mr. Gaussmarkov
    You´ve really done a great job on this pedal. I´ve already done the pcb and soldering part, but there´s no info about the wiring of the footswitch button or the kind/gauge of wire for the pots and overall wiring. Pardon my ingorance. I hope you could help me.

    By the way: Congrats.

    Posted 14.03.2009 at 7:50 pm

  73. Kristoffer Eide said:

    Hello! A couple of guys in a Norwegian forum asked if I could build this for them. What I want to ask you, is if it is OK with you if I sell these to them with a profit. I won’t build it unless you give the green light (forum rules).

    Seems like a nice build!

    Kristoffer

    Posted 20.03.2009 at 10:32 am

  74. gaussmarkov said:

    Dear Kristoffer,

    Thank you for asking and, please use my layout as you please. Just for the record, in the About page on this site I have already said,

    Occasionally I get requests to use my layouts to make PCBs for sale. I am giving blanket permission for this (although it only applies to my layouts—not to those authored by others). Free means free. ;-) I prefer to receive credit as the author of my layouts but I will not charge anyone for the use of any of the information that is on this site.

    All the best!

    Posted 20.03.2009 at 10:49 am

  75. rob said:

    i have built two of these and i just cant get them to work….arghhh..

    i cannot find j201 anywhere in uk…

    i have tried bf245c instead..

    could this be the problem…..

    also i cannot find a 30nf (c13)either
    is this me or the sad shops inthe uk..

    cheers..great site otherwise…

    Posted 24.03.2009 at 3:15 am

  76. Matt said:

    I have been reading about this build on and off now for 6 months. I have done 3 pedal mod kits. 2 by Monte Allums, one to a TS-9 & one to a DS-1. I also did a true bypass/volume boost mod to a VOX wah. These are paint by numbers kits. I want to build this and now I know how to read schematics. However, I am still a little unsure of how to do some of the things neccessary to build this. 1, how do you measure and tweak the bias, is it simply done by ear and twisting the trimmers, or do you measure with a multi meter? If you measure how is that successfully accomplished?

    Posted 26.03.2009 at 11:11 am

  77. Kristoffer Eide said:

    Can I just say this? JFET (j201) Are SO available all over the internet!!! try http://www.banzaieffects.com or http://www.dasmusikding.com or smallbear… Google it folks!

    Kristoffer

    Posted 01.04.2009 at 9:39 pm

  78. Booster oder Distortion Pedal? – Musiker-Board said:

    [...] die Drainspannungen passend hingetrimmt hat, schraubt man eine Weile, aber es lohnt sich. layout: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/dr-boogey/ mfg, Immo __________________ "I used solder made from ground Unicorn horn and the wire is [...]

    Posted 14.04.2009 at 4:10 pm

  79. rob said:

    waheyyy got the j201′s..sorted and it works…brill…excellent drive and sustains to a nice and quiet fade..love it.

    one question though..i am using cermet 100k trims but they don’t seem to have much range for tweaking..they are on or off with just a tiny bit of tweak..are these moody or are there better ones!!! happy bunny otherwise dude cheers…hop hop hop…

    Posted 23.04.2009 at 10:03 am

  80. KaBi said:

    Hi all,

    Since Gauss gives his blessings on people to build this pedal i meant to ask if someone could etch a PCB for me. I’m kinda new around this stuff so i don’t want to mess with the etching procedure, i believe i can handle all the rest. Your work will be rewarded, of course.

    Let me know if and how we can do this

    Oh, and so i don’t forget…
    Gauss, you’re the man :-)

    Posted 07.05.2009 at 4:47 am

  81. rob said:

    hi kabi…etching is simple man..
    download the layout and print it on acetate (clear plastic.) using a laser toner printer(normal printers wont work)then iron the image onto a piece of copper clad board…now soak in ferric chloride and watch the remaining copper dissappear..clean of the ink …voila..you now have the image…drill holes and your done..

    it gives a remarkably pro look to the board.. good luck man..

    Posted 08.05.2009 at 10:54 am

  82. Gill said:

    please help me
    i build it perfectly with no parts replacement all as on PDF
    and i have sound but no bass!
    maybe just a little but no has it should be
    please help me

    Posted 10.05.2009 at 2:44 pm

  83. gaussmarkov said:

    pls go to diystompboxes.com for debugging help. ;-)

    Posted 10.05.2009 at 4:13 pm

  84. Fernando said:

    hello, i’m a begginer about diy pedals, i’m looking the layout and i can’t find the output of the board, any help?
    thanks!

    Posted 01.06.2009 at 7:29 am

  85. gaussmarkov said:

    at the top of this page, in the column on the right, you will find links to all of the files including “project pdf” which contains the image for the board to scale.

    Posted 01.06.2009 at 7:50 am

  86. njkmonty said:

    do i need to shield inputr/outut wires?
    if i breadboard it first will it sound different than inside a box?
    whats the general thought of replacing trimmers with resistors after dmm the desired resistance of each trimmer, (recomeended or not). I have a fender twin, is this pedal going to sound like a boogie, or am i going to have to eventually buy a designated valve “distortion” amp. ie im hoping what im reading is true? please advice.

    Posted 04.06.2009 at 6:29 am

  87. somemuso said:

    if some can’t find a 2.5 k pot…get a 5k one and connect a 5 k resistor between the outer lugs…this will half the pot to 2.5k

    Posted 12.06.2009 at 12:26 am

  88. Anonymous said:

    do i need to shield inputr/outut wires?
    if i breadboard it first will it sound different than inside a box?
    whats the general thought of replacing trimmers with resistors after dmm the desired resistance of each trimmer, (recomeended or not). I have a fender twin, is this pedal going to sound like a boogie, or am i going to have to eventually buy a designated valve “distortion” amp. ie im hoping what im reading is true? please advice.

    Posted 16.06.2009 at 2:34 pm

  89. Bud said:

    What brand and type of box caps are we supposed to use with this layout. I’ve never done this before, and Mouser’s stock is a bit overwhelming. Vishay and Xicon seem to be close to what I need, but the things have various lengths and not every cap listed in the parts list is available in the box variety.

    Posted 22.06.2009 at 3:11 pm

  90. rob. said:

    fernando: output of pedal is volume 2 lug…hope this helps…

    i built both types and have experimented with all types of caps…with varying results for the same values…mmmm…i guess download the pdf and it will tell you what to use in the parts list……….
    enjoy..this is well worth building..i love em..

    Posted 24.06.2009 at 9:05 am

  91. Bud said:

    Finally built this thing and it sounds great. I personally recommend using the 500k pot for the gain – I wish I would have used it instead of the 1M.

    BTW, for anyone who’s having issues finding the right sized capacitors, check out the Wima box caps on Mouser. They worked well.

    Posted 20.07.2009 at 11:15 am

  92. Attila said:

    Hi, I confused on biasing.Commercial 9v batteries not 9v. ~8.xxV So ,what can ı use for biasing ? with 9v bench p.s or common battery that mentioned above. Example if com.bat. 8.58v and will I bias the jfets to 5V , or reg9V to the circuit jfets on 5V. Sorry for bad language.Thanks.

    Posted 18.08.2009 at 7:16 pm

  93. attila said:

    I made acoording to 9v and , jfets ~5.5V the dr.boogey behave like a fuzz box , also I soldered jfets , and dont change now, all money gone to air.

    Posted 22.08.2009 at 7:43 am

  94. direito said:

    hi.i finish this circuit today and i have the same problem its like a fuzz and the sustain its very short and crappy.

    Posted 01.09.2009 at 5:03 pm

  95. Anonymous said:

    I fix the problem, change the pot , bias it 9v reg.p.s. Use good film caps , I find some of them in cfl ligth bulbs.And and and important ….. —>>> use 20 or less gain amp with earth connection.

    Posted 05.09.2009 at 4:25 pm

  96. rob said:

    these are tip positive aren’t they?

    can they be made to be tip negative for my ols boos supply…

    cheers.

    Posted 14.09.2009 at 6:00 am

  97. Anonymous said:

    tip positive??? +- symetrical p.s?

    Posted 18.09.2009 at 4:43 am

  98. evtim said:

    If voltage gains of all stages after the first is kept the same as in the original amplifier, but the supply voltage is, for example, 1/10 of the original or less, then the gain of the first stage must also be 1/10 or less from the gain of the original first stage. Maybe grid conduction can also be emulated. For the first stage, maybe a BF245C(to keep the stage from hitting the supplies within a ~+-5V input from the guitar, BF245C has pinchoff of about -5V) stage with altered component values for a gain of about 3-3.5 will be a good choice.

    Posted 05.10.2009 at 4:30 am

  99. rob said:

    hi all…i can’t seem to get the tone control that others have on youtube etc…in fact my treble pot works backwards even though i have been through the wiring its all correct….is it because i have had to put a 22k pot instead of a 2.5k pot because i can’t find one anywhere…i can get a 1k pot will this be better?…cheers guys..great project great sound otherwise…

    Posted 15.10.2009 at 11:09 am

  100. rob said:

    hi…i wish to make my boogie into a double switching pedal….i want to be able to choose between a low gain and a hi gain setting…i presume this will involve an extra gain pot and switch…but i have no idea how to go about it..any ideas…

    Posted 20.10.2009 at 5:42 pm

  101. Max said:

    Hey Everybody,

    i think the Dr. Boogey is a completely messed design from the start. You can easily see, that this is rather a distortion fx, than a preamp emulation.
    I recommend reading the Paper of Dimitri Danyuk about Jfets emulating Triodes if one want to get close to a real Rectifier.

    One thing that worked for me quite well is getting rid of those 1uF caps at the source of the Jfets. Another thing is using the tools from runoffgroove and measuring the Idss und Vp of the jfets used. With the calculator there, you can easily get alot better Source resistors than the 1k8 ones. The 3k9 in special is complete crap. Replace with a 1k2-1k5 and set the Voltage a little of Vsupply/2. This triode stage is just biased a little of center in the original design to include a bunch of harmonics.

    Keep the good work up and thanks for the eagle files

    Posted 01.11.2009 at 11:22 am

  102. Saul said:

    to Max – “Completely messed”? I think not! It is a solid design, and does what it was intended to do – cop the dual rec distortion sound in a stompbox! As far as your assertions about removing the bypass caps, look at the original dual rec schem – I see ‘em, can’t you?

    Because jfets have such a wide production spread, it is always best to measure their vp and idss, yes, and tailor the circuit components to match them (or vice versa). However, these components values work for a decent spread of J201 values.

    Hats off, I’ve been studying this circuit and am getting ready to build it… the clips sound amazing, you’ve done a good thing!

    Posted 24.11.2009 at 10:53 am

  103. Rory said:

    Hey, I was wondering if it was possible to remove the presence control and put in a contour control instead? If so, what would I have to change in the circuit?

    Posted 27.11.2009 at 1:52 pm

  104. Max said:

    @ Saul:

    no pun intended, but i think you dont get the point. The Cathode Bypass Cap on a triode has two purposes. First of all it eliminates the negative feedback for the AC-Path, so that the cathode resistor functions only for biasing the grid. A triode transfer functions goes by x^1.5. The Jfet goes by x^2. Dimitri showed, that you can emulate a triode stage by applying a moderate feedback. The tranfer function will shift to x^1.5. But only if you are not overdriving the stage( This is the purpos of an gainy amplifier, but we can not correct this one without investing a lot of power of thought).

    By just copying the circuit of a dual rect, you will have an source bypass cap and therefor you will have no negative feedback and a transfer function of x^2. No Triode emulation at all. That is the case with each stage in that “messed up design”. We are not talking about assymetrical biasing (look for large Cathode resistors in an original JCM800, SLO100, Recto schem.) of one triode stage, not of input (grid/gate swings to max/or min) or output (Vsupply reaches max/min) biasing or the Miller capacitance or the high pass from the Cathode Resistor and Capacitor. I’m building and simulating some classic amps @ the moment and i can say the following.
    (I dont have a lot of time @ the moment, but i will post the results somewhere, sometime).

    If you have built an Jfet-Tube-Miracle-Thing and you are wondering (e.g. Dr. Boogey) why you have that squealing noise and only a off state or over the top distortion, dont wonder – its a messed up design.

    I know only of two semi-good designs from runoffgroove, their older pedals are messed up too.

    Max

    PS: Messed up means – pretty decent as an effect, but as close to the original as an apple to a banana.

    Posted 29.11.2009 at 9:08 am

  105. rob said:

    @saul and max..

    now now gentlemen!…

    it sounds good to me!…..

    Posted 29.11.2009 at 10:04 pm

  106. kefe13 said:

    Posted 30.11.2009 at 4:12 pm

  107. Dr Robb said:

    Just wanted to chime in…

    I, as others, want to thank Gauss (Paul), Buck, Electrictabs, and anyone that was envolved in this endeavor, thank you, thank you, thank you.

    This is the BEST sounding pedal in my opinion and clones a Mesa/Marshall half stack beautifally with a lot of knobs and trimmers to adjust tone, the bass and punch are there, and the sound is VERY clear. Perfect.

    I’ve been looking for something like this aND HI-GAIN FOR A long TIME (20+ years), but MODs aren’t cutting it 100% and no one will give up the inside skinny on anything. Only by consolidated effort do things like this, X projects, etc. come to fruition and faster (open source, baby).

    I hear some different tones from the video postings and some complaints. I would just like to say that 1. I’m SURE people are using different or slightly different values and materials and settings. These all come into play. Personally, I took Gauss’ guidance and got every part exact and tight tolerances (resistors 1%, caps 5%)! They did a perfect job.

    Some people I believe are not engineers, nor technicians. They have to research, and take advice and not standard electronics and engineering methodology (such as not crossing signal path wiring, keep + and – wires together is possible. All of these things will help keep noise, RF, and hum down to a minimum even in a hi-gain circuit.

    Also, I was having HUGE difficulty in the power with a battery, DC jack, 3PDT, and LED. I spent hours and days. Again, Gauss’ page clarified this critical step in getting it working with step-by-step how-to advice.

    Thanks again!

    Robb

    Posted 06.12.2009 at 8:23 am

  108. Dr Robb said:

    Just wanted to add a couple more items…

    * Keep wires as short as possible
    * Shield signal wires if their drifting in the box (add shielding cable and ground the shield)
    * Make sure you get the circuit at least working outside the box before putting it in the box
    * If you’re getting squealing, hum and other artifacts outside the box, it’s because you’re outside the box! The box should be metal and would be grounded and both keeping out RF and noise. When you put it in the box, you should have no issues. My pedal rocks and is quiet.
    * Sometimes the boards may not work. Take a look at all of the traces, you probably have some solder bridging going on. I did. Also, the JFETs are tricky. Start with all of the pots turned down and voltage very low. then add power and one-by-one adjust to 4.5-5.5 range (note Q5 will always be high no matter what). Follow these steps and you should not have an issue.
    * Finally, check the values. When I audited all of the parts v. schematic/parts list. It showed a 6.8nF cap. I’m wondering do my eyes deceive me? I’m showing a 68n…cap! 10x, WRONG part dude. Need 682 (6800pF)!!

    Posted 06.12.2009 at 8:43 am

  109. rob said:

    it would be nice to see a fully ‘REVISED’ parts list for this great pedal….
    with the correct values etc…

    p.s can’t seem to find a 2.5k pot anywhere!….

    Posted 07.12.2009 at 4:21 am

  110. Fito said:

    Hi!!
    i just have a question about C15, the schematic said that it’s a 5nf value but cannot find it, is it possible to replace it with another value?

    Posted 07.12.2009 at 4:53 am

  111. kefe said:

    6,8 nF

    Posted 07.12.2009 at 11:10 am

  112. CBass said:

    I built this using whatever parts I could find lying around (5% resistors, random capacitors) and am very disappointed by the results. My pedal has terrible, flabby bass response and mostly just sounds like farting. Also, it responds very oddly to string noise, making it impossible to sound good playing through it. I think the lesson I’ve learned is that if you’re going to spend hours etching and soldering, you might as well pony up a little cash for decent parts. It’s very frustrating to pour so much work into a pedal and have it be utterly useless.

    Posted 12.12.2009 at 2:32 pm

  113. Bistru said:

    Hi!!
    Wich are the difference if I use the 500k potentiometer instead of the 1M?

    Posted 13.12.2009 at 7:16 pm

  114. Dr Robb said:

    A few notes….

    1. Use 1M-A and you can’t go wrong. It is on both Gauss’ and Electrictabs schematics: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.4thlevelmedia.com/JCM800Emulator-Parts.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.4thlevelmedia.com/stompboxes.html&usg=__xD53-Tm6u8VPxB8I2P5hz1KjlCE=&h=796&w=1092&sz=475&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=0mLtqW0B1vGFOM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Delectrictabs%2Bboogey%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

    2. I know, on the 2.5k part. Not usual, but non-the-less, attainable. Check out Digi-Key #CT2203-ND for a 2.5k-B linear pot! It’s made by CTS and good for 250mA. It should suffice!

    3. I know 5nF is Just remember, 5nf = 5,000pF or .005uF, sometimes you need to rearrange them. For this one though, I believe you’re going to have to use a 4,700pF (Digi-key #338-1067-ND) or else remember caps double in value if in PARALLEL, so two 2,500pF equals 5,000pF, or you can I believe put two in series and the total value is divided by two IF they are the same value, soo, two 10,000pF in series = 10,000/2 = 5,000pF exactly! Digi-key #338-1078-ND. Enjoy!

    3. the 6.8nF issue was my almost FuBar, not Gauss or anyone else, so it’s a commented advice…check your components. Another example, I got some what were supposed to be 1uF caps from my local electronic store. Again, when I looked directly on the component to install, it said 104!! Umm, that’s .1uF, not the 1uF I needed. Again, check your components and if it doesn’t work.

    Thanks again for everyone’s support. you guys are amazing. Happy New Year!

    Posted 03.01.2010 at 6:39 pm

  115. Allan Belt said:

    Hello from Peru, this kind of preamp is really cool but i´m a Stevie Ray Vaughan fan and i´m wondering if any of you know where can i find a similar pedal to emulate a Fender Super Reverb amp? thanx a lot.
    allan_belt@hotmail.com

    Posted 11.02.2010 at 8:29 pm

  116. painltd said:

    Hi there.

    re the 2k5 lin pot for mids. I am not being able to find it for a reasonable price (Digi.Key shipping costs to EU are 18$ just for 1 item).

    Will it work with a 5k lin and a 5k resistor in parallel? I think it may although it would not be true linear, more like a softened anti log.

    Posted 27.02.2010 at 11:45 am

  117. pauk said:

    Can somebody say about where I need to put a battery, DC jack, 3PDT, and LED ???

    Need help thanks

    Posted 04.03.2010 at 3:06 am

  118. rob said:

    at pauk:….google a 3pdt wiring pic diagram…it will then be obvious ok…

    Posted 10.03.2010 at 7:28 am

  119. gaussmarkov said:

    Some people have found this post on this site helpful: Wiring up a 1590B ;-)

    Posted 11.03.2010 at 11:41 am

  120. KaBi said:

    @gaussmarkov

    i wouldn’t call it helpful, i’d call it a LIFESAVER

    been following this diagram on all my builds, it’s by far the easiest to memorize and hasn’t failed me once

    ps. just taking a chance to congratulate you once again for all the beautiful work on this site :-)

    Posted 16.03.2010 at 8:48 am

  121. pauk said:

    i have finished my dr. boogey and it doesn’t working.I have used all components from the list and Wiring up a 1590B scheme.I have current on jfets and the voltage.

    Is this because I don’t have 2.2k resistor on the led diode or what ?

    Posted 18.03.2010 at 2:30 pm

  122. pauk said:

    I have solved my problem and it’s working like hell.

    Posted 19.03.2010 at 5:28 pm

  123. Ghostsauce said:

    I’ve built this pedal and I love it, awesome work! I do have a slight problem with it though, perhaps it’s because my jfets aren’t matched properly.. It sounds a bit harsh, with some high frequency distortion noise that is not characteristic of a good sound. Anyway, I have 15 jfets and have been swapping them out endlessly to find a combination I like, but I can’t nail it down. I have a multimeter, is there a way to match them with it? Or should I just order 15 more jfets and keep trying? :P

    Posted 28.03.2010 at 8:16 pm

  124. Ghostsauce said:

    Oh, I forgot to mention.. I had to replace both C11 and C12 with the 300nF caps because I ordered the wrong ones and that was the closest I had. I was told this would probably just add more bass, which is good for me, but I’m starting to wonder if that could have something to do with it.

    Posted 28.03.2010 at 8:22 pm

  125. Angelo said:

    Hello everyone ! First of all, Thank you Gaussmarkov for this pedal and schematic. Now here a problem i have… I built it but i hear nothing! :(
    I don’t have a multimeter unfortunatelly …. ( i destroyed it building a voltage multiplier …. :P ) I can sent photos to anyone wanting to help… Thank you.

    Posted 29.03.2010 at 5:23 pm

  126. Ghostsauce said:

    Angelo, try posting for help on this forum: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?board=2.0

    Make sure to include closeup pictures of the board and everything else so that they can help you figure out where it went wrong.

    Posted 30.03.2010 at 6:01 am

  127. Angelo said:

    Ghostsauce,

    Thanks…. I just registered :D

    Posted 30.03.2010 at 6:49 am

  128. Joe said:

    I just received the PCB for this project today and I am about to start it soon. I have done simple and intermediate pedal builds and amplifier mods, this one does look like it will be the most challenging of the pedal builds I have done to date. I am looking forward to having this pedal in my collection.

    Posted 15.04.2010 at 12:31 pm

  129. Sven said:

    Wowww! Built this today and I’m very pleased about it. Very powerfull sounding. Thank you!!!

    Posted 26.04.2010 at 10:18 am

  130. aaron said:

    does anyone know how to add more gainstages to this design, wired to another footswitch…kinda like a boost feature?

    Posted 31.05.2010 at 7:13 pm

  131. Miles said:

    I am trying to source out parts for the Dr Boogey pedal. I have found the BOM list BUT can anyone tell me what type of capacitors and resistors I need, are they axial, radial or SMT, what I need what is the wattage or voltage, does tolerance matter?

    Posted 01.07.2010 at 10:51 am

  132. JoeSixString said:

    Miles, Use WIMA dude. See the comments above. Joe

    Posted 02.07.2010 at 12:02 am

  133. ingko said:

    this is the best distortion pedal i ever maid. I always wanted to build a metal sounding pedal and this one gives it really well. thanks to gaussmarkov. I used 2N5457 instead of the J201 and it worked fine. i post a video in youtube so that people can hear the result of my build and maybe comment on it. it can be located here

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiWvfQ8d64s

    Check out my facebook for the photos of my build maybe other people wanting to buid this can get info from it.

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=156420&id=100000851186070

    Posted 14.07.2010 at 10:03 am

  134. Modmod said:

    Can I substitute J201 with J202?

    Posted 14.07.2010 at 9:48 pm

  135. Any Tips for Rackmounting Stomp boxes? – Ultimate Metal Forum said:

    [...] serial connected in a single enclosure. The TS is built from scratch and it's modded, Dr. Boogey is gaussmarkov's project, they're true bypass and the pedal sounds killer! I'm very proud of the enclosure. I work [...]

    Posted 16.07.2010 at 3:56 pm

  136. Don Bridgman said:

    One mod I made to this build (which is one of the better pre-amp designs I have come across), was to measure the pinch-off Voltage and the saturation current of each individual JFET. I then adjusted the drain and source resistances to properly bias the JFETS. The biasing method I used was an approximation of the fetzer valve circuit (Google it for more information). I have just completed the build and this is a fantastic sounding pre-amp. I am going to run it through the power amp section of a Legend A30 hybrid amp (the power amp section is solid-state) at practice tonite and will post the results later on.

    Posted 14.08.2010 at 11:32 am

  137. Don Bridgman said:

    Used the mod previously described at band practice. Sounds great from super clean to outright, full-blown distortion. Noticed a slight bit of intermodulation distortion (and my style requires an absolute minimum) and will have to recheck the bias points or try to isolate the source of the ID with a function generator and a scope because I don’t have a frequency analyzer…might be quite a project. Oh well, never hurts to experiment, right?

    Posted 21.08.2010 at 11:07 am

  138. gulman said:

    Hello! Could someone tell me whether 2SK30A will work in dr. boogey?? I don’t have access to j201 i need some replacement. Sorry for my poor english.

    Posted 26.08.2010 at 6:42 pm

  139. Don Bridgman said:

    TO GULMAN: I am not an engineer but I see no one has answered your question so I will give it a go. I do have a strong electronics background and have designed and built endless OD/distortion/preamp circuits in my time. I would not recommend using the 2SK30A as a replacement for J201 for this build. It will work and would probably work nicely, however it is NOT a direct replacement and modifications would have to be made. If you have to ask if it can be used as a replacement I am assuming the modifications would be a bit difficult for you. If you are able to perform the required modifications, I would be interested in hearing how it turned out.

    Posted 27.08.2010 at 8:32 am

  140. jimmy said:

    hi everyone!
    i would try to build this awsome pedal, but i don’t have the j201′s. can i use the 2n5088 or bc550 instead of the j201?
    thx so much for the support and of course to gaussmarkov!

    Posted 29.09.2010 at 11:23 am

  141. romano uno said:

    Hey Gauss, I’ve built meself a Boogey, thanks to your layout and all the information on this site. Thanks a bunch!!
    At first, the FX was farting. But after the biasing (trimpot), the tone voiced itself out! Brutal feel out of the pedal! Fantastic! Thanks again Gauss!! Wish you would continue maintaining your awesome site!!

    Posted 08.10.2010 at 10:22 am

  142. romano uno said:

    By the way, all pots I used are linear. They work FINE, except for Gain, which really need log pot, cause it is funny with linear pot, so I used log pot and it solved the funnyness. Sorry for my funny post and lousy English. And thanks again Gauss!!!

    Posted 08.10.2010 at 10:25 am

  143. Dr boogie terminado | Bolio Guitar Works said:

    [...] pedal ha sido realizado gracias al trabajo de GaussMarkov http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/dr-boogey/  , por Bucksears http://www.4thlevelmedia.com/stompboxes.html y por Electrictab’s por publicar [...]

    Posted 27.10.2010 at 10:41 pm

  144. Allan Belt said:

    Hello need help please . i just build Dr Boogie and i can`t bias Jfets even without jfets there`s a voltage between 8.45 and 8.20 at minimun position on trimpot any help?’
    by the way my trimpots are 100 k`s
    Thanks

    Posted 21.11.2010 at 11:17 am

  145. teddy said:

    I made a dr boogey but it something wrong with it.I connected a led via power jack and 3pdt.When turned it on,the led did not light and no sound.I had checked all the connections between components,wires and pots. They all connect well.I tested the voltage on power jack, its very low. What can i do now?

    Posted 17.12.2010 at 9:54 pm

  146. the guy said:

    i have completed all the wiring for the dr boogie but i do not know the off board section ie. the instrument connections the 3dtp switch the 9v connection point or the led is there a schematic that has that in there. this is essentially my first attempt at a diy pedal and i would love to finish it i just cannot figure out the above mentioned pieces. i have even as far as the tone pots connected and everything. someone please help

    Posted 29.12.2010 at 12:56 pm

  147. Audioware said:

    It is a quick and dirty cloning attempt.
    Not bad at all, but generates a bunch of even order harmonics and the sound is way far from the tone response of a rectifier.

    I have built the circuit on both breadboard and pcb and spent about a week to make it play more like a rectifier.
    The problem is impedance differences between stages and passive components and bad biasing (yes 1uf caps are wrong, they alter the response of the stage in a very different way than tubes).

    I agree with Max about:
    Messed up means – pretty decent as an effect, but as close to the original as an apple to a banana.

    I am pretty sure, anyone who has played with a rectifier head live and loud, will agree with me.

    Posted 06.01.2011 at 1:40 pm

  148. BiptoN said:

    This was built from Mesa schematics for the preamp section, what would it take to make this into a preamp instead of a pedal.

    Posted 11.01.2011 at 7:34 pm

  149. pirriaf said:

    Please could you give me the PCB spacers?

    Posted 13.02.2011 at 9:34 am

  150. PhoenixHUN said:

    I’ve just finished my Dr Boogie. Fortunately it worked for the first time, and it sounds really cool. Thanks for the schematics, I really appreciate your work!

    Posted 24.02.2011 at 4:28 pm

  151. sgRED said:

    I have seen all the questions, advices and thoughts about the changes to be made on the original pedal itself! And all i can say is this: Why no one builds a pedal that is so much better than Dr. Boogey, and then play us a clip on youtube or such so we can decide!? All those guys, that are building a Dr. Boogey or any pedal, on your desks in your little rooms at the house, from the parts that you find in your grand mom’s old iron, why don’t you go out and pay 200$ or more for a real pedal, and leave a building to people who respect schematics, part lists, pcb and wiring diagrams!????? Thank you so much for the answers :)

    Posted 28.02.2011 at 8:05 am

  152. JaNs said:

    Hai Guys……just to ask..can i use mylar caps or ceramic instead a film caps?…..co’z film caps here in our country is unavailable…..help me plzz….tnx too much in advance….

    Posted 17.03.2011 at 4:08 am

  153. beybi said:

    Hi,

    I ‘ve a problem with the web site(http://geocities.com/electrictabs/dr.boogey.png.) Could you tell me another web site to find pedal’s layouts

    Posted 17.04.2011 at 5:21 pm

  154. Robrhy said:

    Can someone tell me where the power supply connections are on this board.

    Posted 27.04.2011 at 8:25 am

  155. Robrhy said:

    Found it.

    Posted 28.04.2011 at 2:31 am

  156. Tankman said:

    Hi you all! First of all, thanks to Paul for his great web, source of knowledge and inspirations for all of us..;)

    I’m just finishing my first stomp box (Dr.Boogie) it really sound great but I find it fuzzy, and I was wondering how to set correctly the bias of the trim pots to give it more distortion, I’m a rookie so I don’t know how to test the bias from the trim pots, can you help me to know how many volts are they giving?

    And, I have another question, did you find the sustain short too?

    Posted 08.05.2011 at 5:43 pm

  157. pirriaf said:

    I finished my DR BOOGIE is wonderful …. THANKS

    Posted 10.05.2011 at 11:15 am

  158. Tbagger said:

    Finished my pedal sound brilliant, could use a little more touch sensativity, thanks for the wonderful resources

    Posted 14.06.2011 at 8:38 pm

  159. cristian said:

    What valors are for R16 and R17 ????
    Its write only 100 ????????
    Thanks

    Posted 18.06.2011 at 4:51 am

  160. Pdr said:

    Cristian, if it’s only writen 100, it means 100ohms. Not 100Kohms. Not 100GIGAohms. :D

    I’m having a bad hiss problem when the volume goes LOOOOUUUD… How can I fix that? I used 5 or 10% tolerance resistors, so I know it must be that, but I don’t know the resistor I need to replace to get the hiss frequency off.

    Sorry for some bad english :)
    Thanks

    Posted 19.06.2011 at 10:55 am

  161. Allan Belt said:

    Hi and thanx for thr project the only question i have is why in the original Mesa Boogie Pots are
    Treble 220K
    Mid 22K
    Bass 1M
    Vol 1M
    Pres. 100K
    Gain 1M
    and the one presented here have another values? which one is better?
    Tnx and greetings from Peru.

    Posted 13.07.2011 at 10:10 am

  162. Armur said:

    Thank you for this great stomp effect. Please advice. What should be the correct linear or logarithmic potentiometers. It’s that good.
    BASS 100K-A Logarithmic
    GAIN A-1M (or 500K) Logarithmic
    2.5k MID-B Linear
    PRESENCE B-10K Linear
    TREBLE 25K-A Logarithmic
    VOLUME 100K-A Logarithmic.
    I ask because for us it means some other way around.

    Posted 06.08.2011 at 11:02 am

  163. Christian rocker and DIY pedal builder looking for place to hang out – Page 2 – Guitar Forums said:

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    Posted 24.08.2011 at 9:30 am

  164. reroe said:

    this is not about dr boogey but other jfer simulator. please help me…

    i’ve just finished a carvin legacy jfet pedal (so called leegazzy in the web) and a laney gh100L preamp part(exactly same circuit with tube version)
    and they have same phenomenon, that is, ~193hz buzzing at high volume(or gain). i write “193hz buzzing” because i think buzz frequency is as same as with open g note.

    i googled to solve the problem, checked my ground scheme, jack isolation…
    i also found that someone said about self oscillating problem so i wonder if my problem is that.
    i connected 9V power supply to each gain stage trim pot (of course, trim pot connects to jfet drain) with no filtering logic(no resistor, no cap)

    could you suggest about my problem? and if you think oscillating is the matter, please let me know how to fix it

    Posted 14.09.2011 at 4:14 am

  165. Loy said:

    Hi !
    A realy big Thanks for this publish. I don’t know if I will succeed to doing it, but you’re the only that give all explanations for this circuit, and geocities is down.
    Thanks !
    An amator electronical guitarist :p

    Posted 24.09.2011 at 10:32 am

  166. Leo said:

    first of all, thanks Gauss and congrats for the layout and website. You are so cool.

    Ok, I buildt it, and Im nor happy with its bass response. Its flabby, and harsh. Y do like the distortion levels, kept the 1uf source caps, and biased 5.2v every j201.

    Q5 is MPF102 with 1k2 source resistor, and used miller caps, its such a quiet circuit.

    Did every mod to the tonestack that i have found on the internet, and I really hate it. I Have plans to remove it.

    Oh, I used 2sk117 at first but didnt work as good as j201s.

    Sorry for my argentinian english aproach.

    If anyone can help me with bass lack.. ;)

    Posted 04.10.2011 at 1:13 pm

  167. ALEX GOMEZ said:

    hello!

    Greetings from Chiapas, México. I´m trying to build this pedal and I´ve installed all the components in the pcb. Now… I just need some help… could anyone hepl me by telling where are the IN, OUT, GND AND 9V? PLEASE HELP!…

    alex

    Posted 24.10.2011 at 6:41 pm

  168. John Fiaschetti said:

    Hello,

    I’ve breadboarded a Dr. Boogey and done a couple experiments with it (single tone pot for example). I’ve got a decent sound at lower volumes. When I turn the volume pot up past maybe 1/3 of the way, the circuit starts to oscillate wildly at about 2.3kHz. It gets worse as I turn up the volume. I’m trying to isolate if it’s a specific stage or maybe just that the breadboard with wires on it is picking up too much interference. Any ideas? Thanks a lot!

    Posted 15.11.2011 at 11:34 am

  169. miftah from indonesia said:

    can i replace the j201 with bf245c??? I can’t find j201 in my city, help me please,,, thanks

    Posted 21.11.2011 at 8:37 pm

  170. miftah from indonesia said:

    i,m build it, can i replace the j201 with bf245c??? I can’t find j201 in my city, help me please,,, thanks

    Posted 21.11.2011 at 8:38 pm

  171. Sault said:

    The bf245c isn’t going to work – too high of a pinch-off, too much current consumption.

    The bf245a, 2n5457, and 2n5484 are all viable replacements, but will all have less gain than the j201. Lowering the source resistors from 1.8k to 1k can squeeze a little more gain from them, as long as you trim carefully at the drain.

    Posted 03.12.2011 at 6:02 am

  172. mustafa kuşcu said:

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    Posted 18.12.2011 at 12:57 pm

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  174. Kedi said:

    Hello, I’m from Turkey.
    My English is not very good.
    You would have a question.
    Unfortunately, Turkey has no transistor j201.
    Instead of using BFW13.
    BFW13 will use the system j201 instead of transistors.
    Voltage values​​, respectively, how many should be set?
    I hope you understand question.
    Thank you to friends who are interested.

    Posted 08.01.2012 at 11:59 pm

  175. Dr. Boogey Emulation of the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head : GuitarKitBuilder said:

    [...] your own kit. The schematic, printed-circuit board design and parts-list are all available at the gaussmarkov site. When choosing the enclosure, be sure to allow adequate room for the six external [...]

    Posted 24.01.2012 at 8:50 pm

  176. James Myers said:

    Guass,
    I successfully built this pedal with just a couple mods and love it! Voltage at Q1 – Q4 are all exactly 5V (It’s where my tone was) Thanks for the design and PCB layout, it made things go a lot faster in the build. Do you have any chorus, flange, delay or gate schematics you would recommend? BTW Most of the parts are on Mammoth electronics.com and the others are on Mouser.com

    Posted 02.02.2012 at 10:55 pm

  177. Olaf said:

    Hey I just built this and it sounds great, I am having a problem however with the output volume. I triple checked everything and I biased my j201s to 5.5 cut the output volume is about half of my clean signal even with all knobs at 11. Any ideas on what I might have done?

    Posted 01.03.2012 at 11:34 am

  178. อนันต์ said:

    ไม ผมทำแล้วมันไม่ ดังอะ

    Posted 22.03.2012 at 5:35 am

  179. อนันต์ said:

    ดังแล้วครับ แต่ปลายเสียง ขาดๆ พล่าๆ

    sound good

    Posted 25.03.2012 at 2:13 am

  180. Leonardo said:

    Hi Gauss!
    thank you for this amazing project.
    i’m working for it, and i would like to put them in my guitar (yes, INSIDE the guitar).
    So i need to remove the bass, mid,treble and presence. is this possible? how can i do for do it?
    thank beforehand and regards from Italy!
    (sorry for my poor english).

    Posted 15.04.2012 at 6:12 am

  181. Danny said:

    Hello Gauss!
    It is my first project, and i cant find the foot switch and the LED in the circuit? can you help me?

    Posted 13.05.2012 at 3:25 pm

  182. Stanford Monti said:

    Thanks for good info :)

    Posted 16.05.2012 at 9:09 pm

  183. Mark van Gool said:

    Hey Gauss! I have a question. I have your layout, but noticed the text is in reverse. Should I flip it over once I’m gonna get it etched? Or should I send the layout as it is?

    Kind regards,

    Mark

    Posted 24.05.2012 at 8:49 am

  184. Johnathan Tretheway said:

    Sehr guter Post, vielen Dank habe viel davon mitgenommen. Ein Heizkamin und Kamin Einsatz dazu wäre der Knaller. In Zeiten der erneuerbaren Energie sollte man sich über die Anschaffung eines Kamin ruhig einmal Gedanken machen. Sehr guter Blog, weiter so !!

    Posted 08.07.2012 at 2:17 pm

  185. Rocky said:

    yo gauss,

    what if i stay with the original tone stack as well as the presence pot values, should be no problem right?

    Posted 08.10.2012 at 2:00 pm

  186. mario said:

    hi,
    anyone know what capacitor values ​​for mod raw/vintage/modern ???
    replaces the capacitor c1 by a switch dpdt

    great proyect

    Posted 12.10.2012 at 7:26 am

  187. Victor Rosas said:

    What´s the difference in SOUND between 1M a and 500K for the gain pot? tried searching the thread but didn’t find it. Also.. if I go for a 2 volume – 2 gain configuration, any advice on the values or keep them both (i.e. gain1 and gain2) the same?

    Posted 22.11.2012 at 7:33 am

  188. now said:

    Is this pedal so good like they say?

    Posted 30.11.2012 at 8:57 am

  189. Kalin said:

    Hi,

    What i need to change in schematic, to use this pedal for bass guitar? Maybe caps in eq group? Can u help me? I have passive P-J bass guitar
    Thanks

    Posted 07.12.2012 at 10:46 am

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  191. the ”Doc” boogie (boogey) « TheHypnoToad said:

    [...] complice un post di un utente su homestudioitalia, vengo a conoscenza di un pedale che emulerebbe fedelmente lo stadio distorto del Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier: l’utente lo aveva costruito da solo stampando il pcb ed assemblandolo usando uno degli schemi che si trovano tutt’ora in giro per internet (uno su tutti: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/dr-boogey/). [...]

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  192. Jordas said:

    Hello there,
    is there any way possible to just get an output, without the tonecontrols and presence control, straight to the master volume. I got the signal strat from the transistor , but the signal I am getting has this lud nagging noise. Could it be because I have skipped the tonecotrol and presence ?

    Posted 28.04.2013 at 7:07 am

  193. lidbod said:

    hi can any one help I cant find a 2.5k pot anywere in the uk does any one know were I can get them also i could not source 5nf film box so got 4.7k and replaced 30nf with 33 nf is this ok

    Posted 11.05.2013 at 5:41 pm

  194. Anonymous said:

    help starting to go crazy with this build built 2 and cant get any sound

    Posted 18.06.2013 at 9:53 pm

  195. Dina said:

    Can I replace j201 with 2N5457 ?
    Thanks

    Posted 24.06.2013 at 5:04 pm

  196. Mike said:

    This might be a noob question but…

    Why are there no capacitor voltages given on the parts list?

    Drove for an hour to the store only to find a million different voltages for the caps on the list ;(

    Posted 17.07.2013 at 1:40 pm

  197. gaussmarkov said:

    Hi Mike,

    If you read the “Parts” sections of this site you will sometimes find your answer. In this case, in Capacitors 1: Description I say “Capacitors are rated for the voltage potential across their leads. 16V are typically used for 9V stompbox circuits. Move up to 25V for an 18V power supply. Many builders just buy 25V capacitors because they can be used in either case. Some capacitor values are not available without moving up to higher voltage ratings like 50V. There is no apparent problem with using such higher voltage ratings in stompbox circuits.”

    All the best, gm

    Posted 19.07.2013 at 7:20 am

  198. Lucas Notini said:

    Hi guys,
    Here where I live I can’t get the film caps, if I try with the ceramic with the same values it will works fine?

    Sorry for the poor english.

    Thanks

    Posted 23.07.2013 at 10:08 pm

  199. gm said:

    Hi Lucas,

    Yes, the circuit will work with any caps that have the same values. Many people feel that different kinds of capacitors give different sounds and so they are fussy about using the specified type. Also different types of capacitors come in different sizes which can affect the layout of the cirucit. Otherwise, you will be fine. And, IMHO, some of the sound differences are either imagined or caused by other factors.

    Rock on, gm

    Posted 30.07.2013 at 7:56 am

  200. Paolo said:

    Amazing pedal!! Great work Gaussmarkov! Just a question, how can I increase bass or reduce treble?
    Best regards

    Rock on!

    Posted 06.08.2013 at 12:50 pm

  201. lidbod said:

    hi i,ve built one of these and its amazing im built a second for my guitarist and for some reason in getting 9.36v at the in put but i almost halfs the voltage when it goes on to the track at r16 also the track that runs from r17 to trim 1 im getting no voltage i,ve checked all the solders and everything seems fine can anyone help

    Posted 13.08.2013 at 4:11 pm

  202. Fino said:

    Does anyone have a kit that I can buy that has been tested and works? If you also have a video of the pedal I would like to buy one.
    Fino

    Posted 17.09.2013 at 6:28 pm

  203. BD said:

    I just etched and built it. Sounds OK but I think I need to tweak the bias on the 201′s. It’s pretty a generic distortion pedal running through a Carvin V3.

    Also tweak the amp setting as well.

    Posted 25.07.2014 at 9:32 am

  204. zeoxcadabra said:

    Hi! Has anyone think how to use two tonestack?one rithm,one soloing? Is it able to use a 3 dpt and switch the gain pot and the q5 out? Thanks

    Posted 17.08.2014 at 2:52 pm

  205. Marek said:

    Hi, i tried to build one for myself. I get no output and i don’t know why. Is there any strategy to find out whats wrong?
    Got 4x J201 and Q5 is MPF102.
    Everything seems fine but something doesn’t work :(

    Posted 29.08.2014 at 12:32 pm

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