Dr. Boogey |
This is electrictab’s pedal emulation of the Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Solo Head. See his schematic at http://geocities.com/electrictabs/dr.boogey.png. It is a very popular build on Aron’s forum. This layout is a substantial revision of previous ones. It is the product of contributions by many members of the forum.
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ubersam said:
I noticed in the schematic that the value of the capacitor in the presence control of the scaled down tone stack is indicated as 3nF. Is it supposed to be 30nF (or the next common value, 33nF)? I used the closest value that I have, 33nF, to what John listed in my DR thread. I might try a 27nF for more presence, although the circuit seems to have plenty already.
Posted 19.06.2007 at 1:43 pm
gaussmarkov said:
Thanks! I have corrected this (… and it was correct on my computer … no idea what happened …)
Posted 19.06.2007 at 1:48 pm
candley said:
So you’re happy with the J201 in all sockets?
Posted 08.01.2008 at 11:38 am
gaussmarkov said:
I have to admit that I have not experimented with other transistors.
Posted 08.01.2008 at 1:03 pm
Will said:
Hi Gauss. I built the Dr. B a couple of weeks ago and this little beast screams like hell!! I’m really pleased with the sound and very satisfied with the results. Your layout seems to be the best for Dr B.
One out-of-topic question: how do you export the eagle layout to a pdf or Corel Draw vector format?
Cheers!
Posted 27.01.2008 at 3:06 pm
gaussmarkov said:
re pdf: the quick answer is that you use the CAM Processor listed under the File menu. this will work for either schematics or boards. first, select the Device for output and then a file for output. second, select the layers you want to include. third, choose any style features (like Fill Pads). fourth, specify image dimensions (if you like). finally, select Process Job.
i output encapsulated postscript and go from there to pdf.
i hope this is enough info to get you started!
Posted 28.01.2008 at 11:42 am
Will said:
Just did it and it works!! Thanks so much Gauss!
Posted 28.01.2008 at 8:02 pm
Seherezka said:
Is it possible to use other transistors? J201 seems to be unavailable at my local store. Thanks
Posted 30.01.2008 at 12:09 pm
gaussmarkov said:
no, you cannot just substitute in other n-channel jfets. the J201 is special in that it has a low pinch-off voltage and parts of this circuit take that into account.
Posted 31.01.2008 at 4:16 pm
Mark said:
I had just built this project,and this thing really rocks! i still have some humming though. How can i fix this? one more thing. How can i add more bass and tame the highs? Thanks!!!
Posted 04.03.2008 at 2:41 pm
andre said:
My dr boogey has great distortion (pot is with 500k), and even when excessive bass pot 1, voltages of q1 the q5 all 4.5v, which would be ideal for voltages less severe (bass) in the sound.
Q1 =?
Q2 =?
Q3 =?
Q4 =?
Q5 =?
Posted 10.03.2008 at 5:09 am
Norbert said:
Hi
I was wondering……..would this project benefit by using the bi-polar 9v power supply instead of it normal 9v supply……and if so……How would it be added to the schematic?
Posted 19.04.2008 at 4:52 pm
gaussmarkov said:
Norbert:
the jfets are all biased according to the single supply. i think it would take a little redesign to switch to a +/-9V supply.
Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:36 pm
gaussmarkov said:
Mark,
are you using a really clean power supply?
Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:37 pm
gaussmarkov said:
andre,
for the JFETs with output from the drain (Q1, Q2, Q3, and Q4) biasing the drain at least to 5V, preferably 5.5V, as a rule of thumb.
Q5 has its drain tied to the power supply, so that should not be near 4.5V. it is serving as a voltage follower and that’s why it doesn’t need a trimmer for adjusting the bias.
hope this helps, paul
Posted 19.04.2008 at 5:41 pm
sadrew said:
Hi paul, thanks for your great layout.
I built succesfully my dr.boogey, with zero noise and great distortion tones.
What i don’t like too much is the tonestack, and i want to replace it with a more versatile tonemender from runoffgroove.com.
How can i eliminate the tonestack from the dr.boogey schematic to have only gain and volume knob?
Thanks and greetings from italy
Giacomo
Posted 17.05.2008 at 4:15 am
gaussmarkov said:
Giacomo,
that’s good news that your dr. boogey is working well. you are most welcome.
to remove the tonestack, eliminate Q5, R13, R14, C11, and C12. also run a jumper from the pad of Q5 that connects to Q4 and another jumper from the pad next to C10 that connects to terminal 2 of the treble pot to terminal 3 of the volume pot.
you may find that you would like to insert a low pass filter between C10 and the volume pot. let me know, if you do.
and also consider increasing the value of C10.
all the best, paul
Posted 17.05.2008 at 2:28 pm
sadrew said:
I founded a schematic on aron site of the db without tonestack (thanks martymart).
Now i like my boogey even more!
Next step will be trying the tonemender eq, but i want to have only one volume control. Should i eliminate the volume pot from the dr.boogey or from the tonemender?
Posted 18.05.2008 at 1:19 pm
gaussmarkov said:
i would put replace everything from Q5 on with the tonemender. let us know what you do and how it works out!
Posted 19.05.2008 at 4:34 pm
Roger Yu said:
Paul, Hi my q1=5.42v q2=5.40v q3=5.38v q4 = 4.50v so my q5 g= 4.50v and s=5.08v and d=9.23 . My question is do I need to make the q5 gate more higher let say make it 4.75v or more ? Vg 4.50v -VS5.08 = -0.58 isn’t it? I’m using al J201 and my regulated adaptor power supply is 9.37v
Posted 22.05.2008 at 4:05 am
Matt McQueen said:
Mark,
I have watched some videos of this pedal on youtube. Love the way it sounds. I would love to find some pictures of this pedal’s guts and maybe even get a few pointers on building it. Thanks a bunch in advance.
Posted 28.05.2008 at 8:13 pm
gaussmarkov said:
you will probably find some gut shots in the Pictures! post on diystompboxes.com. also there are quite a few build reports on that forum as well.
i hope this helps!
Posted 28.05.2008 at 9:43 pm
gaussmarkov said:
Roger Yu,
If you like the sound at 4.5V for Q4’s source (and Q5’s gate), then don’t raise the voltage. I suppose you have experimented with higher values? What do you hear?
Paul
Posted 28.05.2008 at 9:56 pm
Roger Yu said:
Feedback even volume setting is minimum. I change Q5 into MPF102 and Source resistor into 1.2k and retain Q4 voltage at 4.5v now it’s tame. I can dial the volume up to 3 0′clock before it squeal. I tried MPF102 at Q1 but not aggressive compared to all j201 that’s why I experimented MPF to Q5. Now I’m very satisfy. One more question Paul, Is it true that I should not use Mil Bypass on this circuit co’z it may affects the circuit or causes more feedback or squeal? Thanks in advance.
Roger
Posted 29.05.2008 at 9:08 pm
gaussmarkov said:
Roger,
That’s good news. I’m pleased that you worked it out.
It has been so long since I looked at R.G.’s Millenium bypass that I do not know without looking. It surprises me to hear that. I will try to remember to look.
Cheers, Paul
Posted 29.05.2008 at 9:32 pm
Roger Yu said:
Thanks Paul, There’s one question still I like to verify… Electrictabs used 1uf polarized on Q1,Q2 and Q4 fet source but then you used Non-polar, What’s the difference? Is there a theory or just in practice choosing what to use? I may encounter the same circuit in the future so that I’m may know.
Roger
Posted 05.06.2008 at 11:24 pm
gaussmarkov said:
hi Roger,
polar electrolytic caps have large capacitances for their size and have been used for 1uF values for a long time. but now box film caps come in this value, are not too expensive, and are not too big. they are generally a better choice.
the primary reason is that electrolytic caps deteriorate more rapidly over time and have to be replaced more frequently.
electrolytic caps are also leaky and they become more leaky over time. they behave like a box film cap with a resistor across its leads. this can be taken into account in a circuit. all the the source caps you mention already have resistors across their leads in the circuit so it is possible to compensate with the values of these resistors.
with new capacitors, i doubt we would notice the difference in the sound of the dr. boogey, unless the inherent variation of the capacitances caused us to accidentally put in very different values.
i hope this helps, paul
Posted 06.06.2008 at 5:22 am
Roger Yu said:
Paul thanks,
At first, I used non-polar electro on the three Q’s but feedback sometimes occur when idle even though I tame it a little by using MPF102 at q5. So I when look on electrictabs schmo which indicates polarized and I only got one 1uf tantalum then I used it on Q4. Suddenly the feedback has stop. I don’t know if this help more the MPF102 to permanently control the feedback. I never bother to change the NP electro on Q1 and Q2 anymore.
Again, thank you so much.
Roger
Posted 06.06.2008 at 5:15 pm
gaussmarkov said:
hi Roger,
perhaps the actual values of the capacitors are quite different? did you measure their capacitances with a DMM?
paul
Posted 07.06.2008 at 8:07 am
tomas said:
gaussmarkov, where is the “out” in this layout? is it in the 2nd pin of the vol. pot?
many thanks.
looking forward to this one!
Posted 08.06.2008 at 1:16 pm
gaussmarkov said:
yes, that’s right.
2nd lug/pin of the volume pot is the output. wire the output jack to that and you are good to go.
all the best, gm
Posted 08.06.2008 at 8:02 pm
Roger Yu said:
Hi Paul,
I used 105 marked on tantalum and I also test it with analog multimeter only. It has a positive symbols on it.
Thanks,
Roger
Posted 11.06.2008 at 4:16 am
Pascal said:
Hello Gaussmarkov,
I’m more tube specialist and I know in that case how to adjust the bias, but here, what is the rule to adjust the FET bias with the trimmer ?
Thx
Posted 23.06.2008 at 12:40 pm
gaussmarkov said:
AFAIK there is no common rule for biasing JFETs with the trimmer. i suggest that you start by setting the trimmers to get 4.5V at the drain (for a 9V supply) and then adjust upward according to what your ear tells you.
Posted 23.06.2008 at 9:21 pm
Audioguy said:
I dont suppose you’ll do a layout for the JCM800 or the Slow Century? They are both really close in design to the Dr. B as they were all essentially done by the same folks. And if you use the original layouts, they all suffer from the same noise issues… Your Dr.B is dead quiet and even seems easier to bias!
Hell I would even pay you for your time!!!
take care!
Posted 05.07.2008 at 8:57 pm
milzer said:
hey.! where are the layout and parts list of this project??????????
Posted 30.07.2008 at 1:27 am
gaussmarkov said:
at the top in the right-hand sidebar.
Posted 30.07.2008 at 5:27 am
tomas said:
I finally got everything i need to make this happen, but as usually, i have a couple of doubts. Would the input hole be the one on the right of the word “in” (in your layout, of course) or the one below it, the hole next to R1? My other problem is with the Ground. Could it be the hole beneath the word GN…? If thats not it, then I couldn´t find it.
Best for you, man. Your site rocks and so does your everlasting help.
Posted 09.08.2008 at 6:51 am
Fernando [From Chile] said:
Hello, Gaussmarkov. I would like to thank you for posting this project and certainly i would like to ask some questions about the trimmers. I’ve just build this pedal and it works fine, but the setting of the trimmers keeps me unsatisfied, the sounds that i get are more like a FUZZ than “metal dist” that i believe it sounds like. I have read the posts up here and you said that we should measure the voltage at the drain, and it should be near to 5v. Well, with this setting, ¿What kind of sound do you get? Thanks!
PD: Sorry about my poor english.
Posted 13.08.2008 at 3:16 pm
tomas said:
Well, couldnt wait for your answer so I went ahead and did it. It worked right away. Adjusted those trimmers by ear. Now it really rocks!
Thank you very very much for your everclear layouts and project files.
Now im looking for my next
Posted 14.08.2008 at 4:58 pm
tonygtguitar said:
muy buen montaje amigos
Posted 27.08.2008 at 9:59 am
Hidamen said:
Hi,
I’m having some doubts about the Dr.Boogey schematics.
Which layout from the forum is the best one, the one on the PDF file is different than the ones present on the forum !?
Thanks
Posted 08.09.2008 at 12:16 pm
JEM said:
Gaussmarkov Hello, I am pleased to have assembled its version of Dr. Boogey, and I am really satisfied with its sound, is an assembly to which he had some fear, for comments by the network on its difficulty, but with his version I have not had any problems, dreaming of the first and sound spectacular, I am very grateful for sharing with all their experience and good work. Thank you
PS: Sorry for my English I’m using a translator to send my thanks. Greetings from Spain
Posted 13.09.2008 at 4:08 pm
neil said:
hello gausarkov..ive atempted dr.boogie for the 2nd time..i cant make it work…i dont realy have any idea whats wrong.. this is the only project that failed..the problem is,there is no output whe engeged but when bypassed,cleantone comes out..i followed evry single step doubled triplled check the board but i can seem to find any prob..looking forward i can find answers
tnx in advance
Posted 17.09.2008 at 5:02 am
Eric said:
Is it possible to substitute the j201’s for 2n7000? Cheers
Posted 18.09.2008 at 2:26 pm
Mark said:
Hi, is it possible to substitute the j201 with another fet ??? and if yes, wich other ??? the j201 seems to be unavailable here ! thanks
Posted 03.10.2008 at 7:01 am
Eric said:
Also what values are r16 and r17 are they 100k or 100ohm? Thanks
Posted 07.10.2008 at 2:02 am
Clint said:
Got my Dr. Boogey finished however it sounds more like a fuzz box instead of a Mesa. I have tried biasing all my J201s to 4.5v then i tweeked by ear. However, all i get is a fuzzy distortion. Any ideas?
Thanks
Posted 26.10.2008 at 7:29 pm
gaussmarkov said:
honestly, i don’t have much time to think about it, but here are two thoughts. first, j201’s are highly variable so you can try moving them around and see what happens. (i hope you used sockets for the transistors.)
also, i have found that j201s like to be biased above 4.5v. try starting them all around 5v and tweaking from there.
i hope this helps. sorry that i cannot spend more time on this.
Posted 27.10.2008 at 4:10 pm
Clint said:
I did use sockets, i purchased 10 extra J201s so ill keep trying different combinations until i find a good set. Ill try bias them at 5v also. Thanks for the quick reply.
One other quick question.
Does this pedal have an obscene amount of volume compared to other pedals? I have to keep the volume pot around 1.5-2 on a scale of 10 to match my bypassed volume. I am using a A100k for my volume pot.
Thanks again
Posted 27.10.2008 at 6:37 pm
Clint said:
Got the sound i was after with a bit more time spent with different JFETs. I ended up using a MPF102 in Q2 and after 20 minutes of tweaking all the gain stages i got the sound i was after. This pedal has a great “Gargle” sound that is so hard to recreate. Terrific schematics and PCB thanks again Gaussmarkov
Posted 01.11.2008 at 11:15 am
Matt said:
I really want to build this pedal. I have been looking at a lot of different builds by a lot of people. I have 2 questions. 1, will this sound better made an etched pcb or a perfboard, or will it not make a difference? 2, where can I go to learn enough about reading schematics to make this. I have a couple of books. But they are older and they are textbooks. Kinda difficult to decipher.
Posted 06.11.2008 at 2:45 pm
clint said:
how much does someone want to build this for me clint2166@cox.net
Posted 16.11.2008 at 3:23 pm
Kevin said:
Does anyone have a mouser part number for the trimpots? I want to make sure I get the right footprint…
Posted 23.12.2008 at 9:20 am
rectifryer said:
Matt,
Use the pcb, it will help keep down noise unless you really know what your doing with p2p wiring or perfboard.
Kevin,
If you go to mouser and look at the data sheet for a particular part, it will list its dimensions. If you go ahead and etch the pcb, you will know what dimensions to look for.
Posted 24.12.2008 at 11:39 pm
rectifryer said:
I have a ? of my own. I play with a 7 string guitar tuned adgcfad. The low A really puts it’s bite out at around 200 hz and 800hz. I would like the low pot to be tuned to 200hz and the mid to 800hz. What caps should I use for this? I’ve already put drastically larger values for c12 and c11 in. It seems the larger the value cap, the more bass I get.
Thanks to anyone that helps, this pedal is awesome.
Posted 24.12.2008 at 11:43 pm
Nicko said:
hello gaussmarkov! may i just ask, can i replace the metal box film caps with mylar caps?
Posted 28.12.2008 at 6:15 am
Nicko said:
What I meant is, can I replace the caps with other types observing correct polarity? For example, replacing an electrolytic with a tantalum one. For a metal box film, a mylar one?
Posted 28.12.2008 at 6:28 am
rectifryer said:
With polar caps their life is limited if the cap is in the signal path.
Posted 02.01.2009 at 1:25 am
ElGuidom said:
Hi, newb here.
I’m going through the parts list and there’s stuff I can’t find.
For instance, I can’t find a 2.5k linear pot for mids (or audio for that matter). So what should I do? Use a 2k one?
Also, I can’t find some caps with the correct values. Should I use some close value and be done with it? e.g. can I use a 33nF cap for C13, a 22pF for C5, etc?
Posted 08.01.2009 at 1:50 am
rectifryer said:
For the pot go up in value.
For the caps, that will be ok.
Posted 13.01.2009 at 1:00 am
ElGuidom said:
Thank you.
However, I only have a 2.2k pot for the mids, is that somewhat ok?
Posted 14.01.2009 at 8:03 am
lalelu said:
Hi,
Thanx for this great layout!!!
Can I use a 18v power supply for an increased headroom?
How would that affect the trimming? Start with 10v instead of 5v at the drains?
Posted 23.01.2009 at 2:30 pm
Piero said:
Hi! This is a greta project, but in the ampli-in don’t work very well.
I’ve seen that in front of the ampli there are a lot of middle. So i’ve think to insert a switch for split the middle cap from 220nf to…??? i must increase the value of it or not?
Posted 24.01.2009 at 2:14 am
Rob said:
Just built one this weekend, phenomenal, makes me almost not miss my old Triaxis. One question, what can I do to knock the gain pot down? Can’t turn it past 9 o’clock before it is too much, of course, that is with hot pickups. Thanks.
Posted 01.02.2009 at 10:59 pm
MB said:
I’m working on this bad-boy, but I’ve hit into a problem. This might be a stupid question, but the only thing that works is the LED. I just don’t get any sound through. Is there an easy way of clearing this one up, or any suggestion for the cause?
Posted 04.02.2009 at 8:39 am
MB said:
I’m working on this bad-boy, but I’ve hit into a problem. This might be a stupid question, but the only thing that works is the LED. I just don’t get any sound through. Is there an easy way of clearing this one up, or any suggestion for the cause?
Posted 04.02.2009 at 8:39 am
Fakun said:
Hi, i only have bf256 for the j201, i can’t find j201 here, what’s a better replace of the j201?
Thanks a lot
Posted 05.02.2009 at 8:19 am
dooby doo said:
hi any chance of anyone building a distortion along the lines of an mxr dd11 dimebag style pedal…for massive gain and crunch…
it would be a brilliant project…
Posted 22.02.2009 at 8:27 pm
joe satriani said:
hi guys joe here.. i ve just built the dr boogey and i would say that its the best boost preamp pedal i have come across…well done guys keep up the excellent work…
cheers joe.
Posted 22.02.2009 at 8:34 pm
Fakun said:
Hi, a question. Can i use other transistors in darlington for get the rigth gain? I can’t find j201 here. Anny sugestion?
Posted 24.02.2009 at 6:44 am
Phre4k said:
Mr. Gaussmarkov
You´ve really done a great job on this pedal. I´ve already done the pcb and soldering part, but there´s no info about the wiring of the footswitch button or the kind/gauge of wire for the pots and overall wiring. Pardon my ingorance. I hope you could help me.
By the way: Congrats.
Posted 14.03.2009 at 7:50 pm
Kristoffer Eide said:
Hello! A couple of guys in a Norwegian forum asked if I could build this for them. What I want to ask you, is if it is OK with you if I sell these to them with a profit. I won’t build it unless you give the green light (forum rules).
Seems like a nice build!
Kristoffer
Posted 20.03.2009 at 10:32 am
gaussmarkov said:
Dear Kristoffer,
Thank you for asking and, please use my layout as you please. Just for the record, in the About page on this site I have already said,
All the best!
Posted 20.03.2009 at 10:49 am
rob said:
i have built two of these and i just cant get them to work….arghhh..
i cannot find j201 anywhere in uk…
i have tried bf245c instead..
could this be the problem…..
also i cannot find a 30nf (c13)either
is this me or the sad shops inthe uk..
cheers..great site otherwise…
Posted 24.03.2009 at 3:15 am
Matt said:
I have been reading about this build on and off now for 6 months. I have done 3 pedal mod kits. 2 by Monte Allums, one to a TS-9 & one to a DS-1. I also did a true bypass/volume boost mod to a VOX wah. These are paint by numbers kits. I want to build this and now I know how to read schematics. However, I am still a little unsure of how to do some of the things neccessary to build this. 1, how do you measure and tweak the bias, is it simply done by ear and twisting the trimmers, or do you measure with a multi meter? If you measure how is that successfully accomplished?
Posted 26.03.2009 at 11:11 am
Kristoffer Eide said:
Can I just say this? JFET (j201) Are SO available all over the internet!!! try http://www.banzaieffects.com or http://www.dasmusikding.com or smallbear… Google it folks!
Kristoffer
Posted 01.04.2009 at 9:39 pm
Booster oder Distortion Pedal? – Musiker-Board said:
[...] die Drainspannungen passend hingetrimmt hat, schraubt man eine Weile, aber es lohnt sich. layout: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/dr-boogey/ mfg, Immo __________________ "I used solder made from ground Unicorn horn and the wire is [...]
Posted 14.04.2009 at 4:10 pm
rob said:
waheyyy got the j201’s..sorted and it works…brill…excellent drive and sustains to a nice and quiet fade..love it.
one question though..i am using cermet 100k trims but they don’t seem to have much range for tweaking..they are on or off with just a tiny bit of tweak..are these moody or are there better ones!!! happy bunny otherwise dude cheers…hop hop hop…
Posted 23.04.2009 at 10:03 am
KaBi said:
Hi all,
Since Gauss gives his blessings on people to build this pedal i meant to ask if someone could etch a PCB for me. I’m kinda new around this stuff so i don’t want to mess with the etching procedure, i believe i can handle all the rest. Your work will be rewarded, of course.
Let me know if and how we can do this
Oh, and so i don’t forget…
Gauss, you’re the man
Posted 07.05.2009 at 4:47 am
rob said:
hi kabi…etching is simple man..
download the layout and print it on acetate (clear plastic.) using a laser toner printer(normal printers wont work)then iron the image onto a piece of copper clad board…now soak in ferric chloride and watch the remaining copper dissappear..clean of the ink …voila..you now have the image…drill holes and your done..
it gives a remarkably pro look to the board.. good luck man..
Posted 08.05.2009 at 10:54 am
Gill said:
please help me
i build it perfectly with no parts replacement all as on PDF
and i have sound but no bass!
maybe just a little but no has it should be
please help me
Posted 10.05.2009 at 2:44 pm
gaussmarkov said:
pls go to diystompboxes.com for debugging help.
Posted 10.05.2009 at 4:13 pm
Fernando said:
hello, i’m a begginer about diy pedals, i’m looking the layout and i can’t find the output of the board, any help?
thanks!
Posted 01.06.2009 at 7:29 am
gaussmarkov said:
at the top of this page, in the column on the right, you will find links to all of the files including “project pdf” which contains the image for the board to scale.
Posted 01.06.2009 at 7:50 am
njkmonty said:
do i need to shield inputr/outut wires?
if i breadboard it first will it sound different than inside a box?
whats the general thought of replacing trimmers with resistors after dmm the desired resistance of each trimmer, (recomeended or not). I have a fender twin, is this pedal going to sound like a boogie, or am i going to have to eventually buy a designated valve “distortion” amp. ie im hoping what im reading is true? please advice.
Posted 04.06.2009 at 6:29 am
somemuso said:
if some can’t find a 2.5 k pot…get a 5k one and connect a 5 k resistor between the outer lugs…this will half the pot to 2.5k
Posted 12.06.2009 at 12:26 am
Anonymous said:
do i need to shield inputr/outut wires?
if i breadboard it first will it sound different than inside a box?
whats the general thought of replacing trimmers with resistors after dmm the desired resistance of each trimmer, (recomeended or not). I have a fender twin, is this pedal going to sound like a boogie, or am i going to have to eventually buy a designated valve “distortion” amp. ie im hoping what im reading is true? please advice.
Posted 16.06.2009 at 2:34 pm
Bud said:
What brand and type of box caps are we supposed to use with this layout. I’ve never done this before, and Mouser’s stock is a bit overwhelming. Vishay and Xicon seem to be close to what I need, but the things have various lengths and not every cap listed in the parts list is available in the box variety.
Posted 22.06.2009 at 3:11 pm
rob. said:
fernando: output of pedal is volume 2 lug…hope this helps…
i built both types and have experimented with all types of caps…with varying results for the same values…mmmm…i guess download the pdf and it will tell you what to use in the parts list……….
enjoy..this is well worth building..i love em..
Posted 24.06.2009 at 9:05 am
Bud said:
Finally built this thing and it sounds great. I personally recommend using the 500k pot for the gain – I wish I would have used it instead of the 1M.
BTW, for anyone who’s having issues finding the right sized capacitors, check out the Wima box caps on Mouser. They worked well.
Posted 20.07.2009 at 11:15 am
Attila said:
Hi, I confused on biasing.Commercial 9v batteries not 9v. ~8.xxV So ,what can ı use for biasing ? with 9v bench p.s or common battery that mentioned above. Example if com.bat. 8.58v and will I bias the jfets to 5V , or reg9V to the circuit jfets on 5V. Sorry for bad language.Thanks.
Posted 18.08.2009 at 7:16 pm
attila said:
I made acoording to 9v and , jfets ~5.5V the dr.boogey behave like a fuzz box , also I soldered jfets , and dont change now, all money gone to air.
Posted 22.08.2009 at 7:43 am
direito said:
hi.i finish this circuit today and i have the same problem its like a fuzz and the sustain its very short and crappy.
Posted 01.09.2009 at 5:03 pm
Anonymous said:
I fix the problem, change the pot , bias it 9v reg.p.s. Use good film caps , I find some of them in cfl ligth bulbs.And and and important ….. —>>> use 20 or less gain amp with earth connection.
Posted 05.09.2009 at 4:25 pm
rob said:
these are tip positive aren’t they?
can they be made to be tip negative for my ols boos supply…
cheers.
Posted 14.09.2009 at 6:00 am
Anonymous said:
tip positive??? +- symetrical p.s?
Posted 18.09.2009 at 4:43 am
evtim said:
If voltage gains of all stages after the first is kept the same as in the original amplifier, but the supply voltage is, for example, 1/10 of the original or less, then the gain of the first stage must also be 1/10 or less from the gain of the original first stage. Maybe grid conduction can also be emulated. For the first stage, maybe a BF245C(to keep the stage from hitting the supplies within a ~+-5V input from the guitar, BF245C has pinchoff of about -5V) stage with altered component values for a gain of about 3-3.5 will be a good choice.
Posted 05.10.2009 at 4:30 am
rob said:
hi all…i can’t seem to get the tone control that others have on youtube etc…in fact my treble pot works backwards even though i have been through the wiring its all correct….is it because i have had to put a 22k pot instead of a 2.5k pot because i can’t find one anywhere…i can get a 1k pot will this be better?…cheers guys..great project great sound otherwise…
Posted 15.10.2009 at 11:09 am
rob said:
hi…i wish to make my boogie into a double switching pedal….i want to be able to choose between a low gain and a hi gain setting…i presume this will involve an extra gain pot and switch…but i have no idea how to go about it..any ideas…
Posted 20.10.2009 at 5:42 pm
Max said:
Hey Everybody,
i think the Dr. Boogey is a completely messed design from the start. You can easily see, that this is rather a distortion fx, than a preamp emulation.
I recommend reading the Paper of Dimitri Danyuk about Jfets emulating Triodes if one want to get close to a real Rectifier.
One thing that worked for me quite well is getting rid of those 1uF caps at the source of the Jfets. Another thing is using the tools from runoffgroove and measuring the Idss und Vp of the jfets used. With the calculator there, you can easily get alot better Source resistors than the 1k8 ones. The 3k9 in special is complete crap. Replace with a 1k2-1k5 and set the Voltage a little of Vsupply/2. This triode stage is just biased a little of center in the original design to include a bunch of harmonics.
Keep the good work up and thanks for the eagle files
Posted 01.11.2009 at 11:22 am
Saul said:
to Max – “Completely messed”? I think not! It is a solid design, and does what it was intended to do – cop the dual rec distortion sound in a stompbox! As far as your assertions about removing the bypass caps, look at the original dual rec schem – I see ‘em, can’t you?
Because jfets have such a wide production spread, it is always best to measure their vp and idss, yes, and tailor the circuit components to match them (or vice versa). However, these components values work for a decent spread of J201 values.
Hats off, I’ve been studying this circuit and am getting ready to build it… the clips sound amazing, you’ve done a good thing!
Posted 24.11.2009 at 10:53 am
Rory said:
Hey, I was wondering if it was possible to remove the presence control and put in a contour control instead? If so, what would I have to change in the circuit?
Posted 27.11.2009 at 1:52 pm
Max said:
@ Saul:
no pun intended, but i think you dont get the point. The Cathode Bypass Cap on a triode has two purposes. First of all it eliminates the negative feedback for the AC-Path, so that the cathode resistor functions only for biasing the grid. A triode transfer functions goes by x^1.5. The Jfet goes by x^2. Dimitri showed, that you can emulate a triode stage by applying a moderate feedback. The tranfer function will shift to x^1.5. But only if you are not overdriving the stage( This is the purpos of an gainy amplifier, but we can not correct this one without investing a lot of power of thought).
By just copying the circuit of a dual rect, you will have an source bypass cap and therefor you will have no negative feedback and a transfer function of x^2. No Triode emulation at all. That is the case with each stage in that “messed up design”. We are not talking about assymetrical biasing (look for large Cathode resistors in an original JCM800, SLO100, Recto schem.) of one triode stage, not of input (grid/gate swings to max/or min) or output (Vsupply reaches max/min) biasing or the Miller capacitance or the high pass from the Cathode Resistor and Capacitor. I’m building and simulating some classic amps @ the moment and i can say the following.
(I dont have a lot of time @ the moment, but i will post the results somewhere, sometime).
If you have built an Jfet-Tube-Miracle-Thing and you are wondering (e.g. Dr. Boogey) why you have that squealing noise and only a off state or over the top distortion, dont wonder – its a messed up design.
I know only of two semi-good designs from runoffgroove, their older pedals are messed up too.
Max
PS: Messed up means – pretty decent as an effect, but as close to the original as an apple to a banana.
Posted 29.11.2009 at 9:08 am
rob said:
@saul and max..
now now gentlemen!…
it sounds good to me!…..
Posted 29.11.2009 at 10:04 pm
kefe13 said:
THX Dr. Boogey
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2055/boogey026.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnitWXjYhew
Posted 30.11.2009 at 4:12 pm
Dr Robb said:
Just wanted to chime in…
I, as others, want to thank Gauss (Paul), Buck, Electrictabs, and anyone that was envolved in this endeavor, thank you, thank you, thank you.
This is the BEST sounding pedal in my opinion and clones a Mesa/Marshall half stack beautifally with a lot of knobs and trimmers to adjust tone, the bass and punch are there, and the sound is VERY clear. Perfect.
I’ve been looking for something like this aND HI-GAIN FOR A long TIME (20+ years), but MODs aren’t cutting it 100% and no one will give up the inside skinny on anything. Only by consolidated effort do things like this, X projects, etc. come to fruition and faster (open source, baby).
I hear some different tones from the video postings and some complaints. I would just like to say that 1. I’m SURE people are using different or slightly different values and materials and settings. These all come into play. Personally, I took Gauss’ guidance and got every part exact and tight tolerances (resistors 1%, caps 5%)! They did a perfect job.
Some people I believe are not engineers, nor technicians. They have to research, and take advice and not standard electronics and engineering methodology (such as not crossing signal path wiring, keep + and – wires together is possible. All of these things will help keep noise, RF, and hum down to a minimum even in a hi-gain circuit.
Also, I was having HUGE difficulty in the power with a battery, DC jack, 3PDT, and LED. I spent hours and days. Again, Gauss’ page clarified this critical step in getting it working with step-by-step how-to advice.
Thanks again!
Robb
Posted 06.12.2009 at 8:23 am
Dr Robb said:
Just wanted to add a couple more items…
* Keep wires as short as possible
* Shield signal wires if their drifting in the box (add shielding cable and ground the shield)
* Make sure you get the circuit at least working outside the box before putting it in the box
* If you’re getting squealing, hum and other artifacts outside the box, it’s because you’re outside the box! The box should be metal and would be grounded and both keeping out RF and noise. When you put it in the box, you should have no issues. My pedal rocks and is quiet.
* Sometimes the boards may not work. Take a look at all of the traces, you probably have some solder bridging going on. I did. Also, the JFETs are tricky. Start with all of the pots turned down and voltage very low. then add power and one-by-one adjust to 4.5-5.5 range (note Q5 will always be high no matter what). Follow these steps and you should not have an issue.
* Finally, check the values. When I audited all of the parts v. schematic/parts list. It showed a 6.8nF cap. I’m wondering do my eyes deceive me? I’m showing a 68n…cap! 10x, WRONG part dude. Need 682 (6800pF)!!
Posted 06.12.2009 at 8:43 am
rob said:
it would be nice to see a fully ‘REVISED’ parts list for this great pedal….
with the correct values etc…
p.s can’t seem to find a 2.5k pot anywhere!….
Posted 07.12.2009 at 4:21 am
Fito said:
Hi!!
i just have a question about C15, the schematic said that it’s a 5nf value but cannot find it, is it possible to replace it with another value?
Posted 07.12.2009 at 4:53 am
kefe said:
6,8 nF
Posted 07.12.2009 at 11:10 am
CBass said:
I built this using whatever parts I could find lying around (5% resistors, random capacitors) and am very disappointed by the results. My pedal has terrible, flabby bass response and mostly just sounds like farting. Also, it responds very oddly to string noise, making it impossible to sound good playing through it. I think the lesson I’ve learned is that if you’re going to spend hours etching and soldering, you might as well pony up a little cash for decent parts. It’s very frustrating to pour so much work into a pedal and have it be utterly useless.
Posted 12.12.2009 at 2:32 pm
Bistru said:
Hi!!
Wich are the difference if I use the 500k potentiometer instead of the 1M?
Posted 13.12.2009 at 7:16 pm
Dr Robb said:
A few notes….
1. Use 1M-A and you can’t go wrong. It is on both Gauss’ and Electrictabs schematics: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.4thlevelmedia.com/JCM800Emulator-Parts.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.4thlevelmedia.com/stompboxes.html&usg=__xD53-Tm6u8VPxB8I2P5hz1KjlCE=&h=796&w=1092&sz=475&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=0mLtqW0B1vGFOM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Delectrictabs%2Bboogey%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1
2. I know, on the 2.5k part. Not usual, but non-the-less, attainable. Check out Digi-Key #CT2203-ND for a 2.5k-B linear pot! It’s made by CTS and good for 250mA. It should suffice!
3. I know 5nF is Just remember, 5nf = 5,000pF or .005uF, sometimes you need to rearrange them. For this one though, I believe you’re going to have to use a 4,700pF (Digi-key #338-1067-ND) or else remember caps double in value if in PARALLEL, so two 2,500pF equals 5,000pF, or you can I believe put two in series and the total value is divided by two IF they are the same value, soo, two 10,000pF in series = 10,000/2 = 5,000pF exactly! Digi-key #338-1078-ND. Enjoy!
3. the 6.8nF issue was my almost FuBar, not Gauss or anyone else, so it’s a commented advice…check your components. Another example, I got some what were supposed to be 1uF caps from my local electronic store. Again, when I looked directly on the component to install, it said 104!! Umm, that’s .1uF, not the 1uF I needed. Again, check your components and if it doesn’t work.
Thanks again for everyone’s support. you guys are amazing. Happy New Year!
Posted 03.01.2010 at 6:39 pm
Allan Belt said:
Hello from Peru, this kind of preamp is really cool but i´m a Stevie Ray Vaughan fan and i´m wondering if any of you know where can i find a similar pedal to emulate a Fender Super Reverb amp? thanx a lot.
allan_belt@hotmail.com
Posted 11.02.2010 at 8:29 pm
painltd said:
Hi there.
re the 2k5 lin pot for mids. I am not being able to find it for a reasonable price (Digi.Key shipping costs to EU are 18$ just for 1 item).
Will it work with a 5k lin and a 5k resistor in parallel? I think it may although it would not be true linear, more like a softened anti log.
Posted 27.02.2010 at 11:45 am
pauk said:
Can somebody say about where I need to put a battery, DC jack, 3PDT, and LED ???
Need help thanks
Posted 04.03.2010 at 3:06 am
rob said:
at pauk:….google a 3pdt wiring pic diagram…it will then be obvious ok…
Posted 10.03.2010 at 7:28 am
gaussmarkov said:
Some people have found this post on this site helpful: Wiring up a 1590B
Posted 11.03.2010 at 11:41 am